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Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
30/06/2021 - Climbing
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
Mountain guide Daniel Rogger introduces the five best crags in Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites, ideally suited for the Dolorock Climbing Festival scheduled to take place in July: Landro Classico, Scheeweg / Franchi, Stube and Balkonien, Grotte di Landro and the Militare Alpini crag
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
06/06/2021 - Climbing
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
This summer and autumn the picturesque Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley hosts the third edition of Tiro Leader, a climbing challenge to free two difficult sport climbs at the historic crag La città di Uruk. The first to free the routes bolted by Federica Mingolla and Alberto...
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
31/03/2021 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Mount Nelson first ski descent in Canada by Christina Lustenberger, Ian McIntosh
Mount Nelson first ski descent in Canada by Christina Lustenberger, Ian McIntosh
On 4/03/2021 alpinists and extreme skiers Ian McIntosh and Christina Lusti Lustenberger completed their childhood dream by scoring the first ski descent of Mount Nelson in Canada, skiing the mountain's striking East Face.
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
09/02/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
Carlo Alberto Cimenti, best known as Cala, and Patrick Negro perished yesterday in an avalanche while skiing in the mountains of Susa Valley in Italy.
Farewell to Galliano Bordin, founder of AKU
02/02/2021 - Environment
Farewell to Galliano Bordin, founder of AKU
Galliano Bordin, the founder of the Italian footwear company AKU, passed away aged 85 on Saturday. The son of a family of shoemakers, Bordin founded the company at Montebelluna in Northern Italy and exported walking shoes, trekking and mountaineering boots and outdoor footwear to over 30 countries around the world...
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
03/11/2020 - Climbing
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
At Paklenica in Croatia Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković have made the first ascent of Besmrtnici, a 360m multi-pitch no harder than 6c that is already being described as a modern classic. Čujić reports.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online
01/05/2020 - Alpinism
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online
The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of Courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.
Goodbye to British climbing legend Joe Brown
16/04/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye to British climbing legend Joe Brown
Joe Brown, one of the world’s greatest all-round climbers, passed away last night aged 89. Brown pioneered climbs throughout Great Britain, the Alps and the Greater Ranges in particular in the 1950's and '60's. Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in Wales and the first ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in Nepal...
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher: Silbergeier, Headless Children and Zeit zum Atmen
18/09/2019 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher: Silbergeier, Headless children and Zeit zum Atmen
Summer climbing in the mountains resulted in three hard multipitches for Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl: Silbergeier and Headless children in the Rätikon in Switzerland and Zeit zum Atmen up Rote Wand in Austria.