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Nina Caprez, Jeremy Bernard visit Vasilika Moon in Greece
07/12/2021 - Competitions
Nina Caprez, Jeremy Bernard visit Vasilika Moon in Greece
Rock climbers Nina Caprez, Jeremy Bernard and friends spent a week at the Corinth refugee camp in Greece with their 'Andrea Base Camp' van equipped with a climbing wall, to help the NGO Vasilika Moon. Nathalie Bini reports.
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró
07/07/2021 - Alpinism
Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró
Jaume Peiró and Álex González have completed the first ascent of Big Fighter (8a+? (6c/A2), 750m), on the Northern arete of Chaupi Huanca in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
30/06/2021 - Climbing
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
Mountain guide Daniel Rogger introduces the five best crags in Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites, ideally suited for the Dolorock Climbing Festival scheduled to take place in July: Landro Classico, Scheeweg / Franchi, Stube and Balkonien, Grotte di Landro and the Militare Alpini crag
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
06/06/2021 - Climbing
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
This summer and autumn the picturesque Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley hosts the third edition of Tiro Leader, a climbing challenge to free two difficult sport climbs at the historic crag La città di Uruk. The first to free the routes bolted by Federica Mingolla and Alberto...
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
31/03/2021 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Mount Nelson first ski descent in Canada by Christina Lustenberger, Ian McIntosh
Mount Nelson first ski descent in Canada by Christina Lustenberger, Ian McIntosh
On 4/03/2021 alpinists and extreme skiers Ian McIntosh and Christina Lusti Lustenberger completed their childhood dream by scoring the first ski descent of Mount Nelson in Canada, skiing the mountain's striking East Face.
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
09/02/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
Carlo Alberto Cimenti, best known as Cala, and Patrick Negro perished yesterday in an avalanche while skiing in the mountains of Susa Valley in Italy.
Farewell to Galliano Bordin, founder of AKU
02/02/2021 - Environment
Farewell to Galliano Bordin, founder of AKU
Galliano Bordin, the founder of the Italian footwear company AKU, passed away aged 85 on Saturday. The son of a family of shoemakers, Bordin founded the company at Montebelluna in Northern Italy and exported walking shoes, trekking and mountaineering boots and outdoor footwear to over 30 countries around the world...
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
03/11/2020 - Climbing
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
At Paklenica in Croatia Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković have made the first ascent of Besmrtnici, a 360m multi-pitch no harder than 6c that is already being described as a modern classic. Čujić reports.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.