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Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
21/02/2017 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington have abandoned their attempt at make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the famous big wall up the Central Paine Tower in Patagonia, due to terrible weather.
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella
16/02/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella
The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent...
Laura Rogora / Climbing into the future
15/02/2017 - Climbing
Laura Rogora / Climbing into the future
Interview with Italian climber Laura Rogora who, aged a mere 15, made the first ascent of a route at Collepardo on the outskirts of Rome which could be one of the hardest sport climbs ever freed by a woman.
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
10/02/2017 - Alpinism
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.
Stefano Ghisolfi & First Round First Minute / First interview and video of this Margalef 9b testpiece
31/01/2017 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi & First Round First Minute / First interview and video of this Margalef 9b testpiece
Video and interview with Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi who yesterday, on 30/01/2017, repeated 'First Round, First Minute' at Margalef in Spain. This 9b sport climb was freed by Chris Sharma in 2011 and had been repeated previously by Adam Ondra and Alexander Megos.
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
25/01/2017 - Climbing
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
Politically incorrect thoughts after a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, one of the best rock climbing destinations in the world and currently extremely popular among the climbing community. By Maurizio Oviglia.
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
16/01/2017 - Alpinism
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.
Stefano Ghisolfi and Pietro Biagini climb hard at Margalef and Varazze
14/01/2017 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi and Pietro Biagini climb hard at Margalef and Varazze
Sport climbing: at Margalef in Spain Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated 'First Ley' 9a+, while at Varazze in Italy Pietro Biagini has climbed 'Alphacentauri sit', his first 8B boulder problem.
La Bruixa, new ice climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites
10/01/2017 - Alpinism
La Bruixa, new ice climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites
Luca Vallata reports about the first ascent of La Bruixa, a new icefall in Val Zemola, Dolomites, climbed on 05/01/2017 together with Santiago Padrós.
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
03/01/2017 - Alpinism
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the North Face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
29/12/2016 - Climbing
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
Alessio Tait introduces the stunning crag Malga Spora at Croz of Giovan. Another little sport climbing gem in the Brenta Dolomites.
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
26/12/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Stefano Ghisolfi gives Massone its Ultimatum, a new 9a+ at Arco
20/12/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi gives Massone its Ultimatum, a new 9a+ at Arco
Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Ultimatum, a 9a+ sports climb at Massone, Arco.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
19/12/2016 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Durango, Colorado, USA, last weekend and was won by Russia’s Alexey Dengin and Korea’s Shin Woonseon. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

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