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Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have climbed Colonne d’Ercole (1200m, IX) on Mount Civetta in the Dolomites onsight and in a single day. A few days earlier the French mountaineers had teamed up with Silvia Loreggian, climbing Specchio di Sara with the starting variant Coitus Interruptus and the Larcher-Vigiani (8a...
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview
18/08/2021 - Interviews
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview
Interview with Alberto Gnerro and Federica Mingolla, the two ‘judges’ of the Tiro Leader Climbing Challenge in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley. Until October two climbs, one for men and one for women, at the historic crag La città di Uruk await the first free ascent; €...
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
In June 2021 Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the unclimbed SE Ridge of Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan. Due to prohibitive conditions they descended from 6750m.
New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza
11/08/2021 - Alpinism
New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza
On the north face of Presolana Angelo Contessi and Leonardo Gheza have made the first ascent of Presolana Holiday. The new multi-pitch rock climb tackles an independent line between via Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley. Gheza reports.
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
09/08/2021 - Alpinism
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
On the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou e Manu Ponce have established Super Canalizos (6c+, 475m) describing the multi-pitch climb as a ‘perfect sculpture.’
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Women's Finals live
06/08/2021 - Competitions
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Women's Finals live
Sport climbing Women's Finals of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games today. Running commentary starting from 10:30. Janja Garnbret claims Gold! Miho Nonaka silver, Akiyo Noguchi bronze!
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Men's Finals live
05/08/2021 - Competitions
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Men's Finals live
Sport climbing Men's Finals of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games today. Running commentary starting from 10:30. GOLD for Alberto Ginés López, Nathaniel Coleman silver, Jakob Schubert bronze.
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
05/08/2021 - Alpinism
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria
Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
29/07/2021 - Interviews
Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
Interview with Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Routesetter for Lead at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
28/07/2021 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
The third episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's. After Finale Ligure and Sperlonga, the third stop are the crags at Ferentillo in the heart of Umbria.
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster add Sinnfresser to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
23/07/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster add Sinnfresser to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
Simon Messner and Philipp Prünster have made the first ascent of Sinnfresser, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites.
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.

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