New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza

During this quite particular year, also as a result of the fairly dodgy weather, most of my projects vanished, giving way though to other opportunities.

At the start of the year I never thought I'd spend so much time on Presolana. After having pulled off the first repeat of the extremely beautiful Via del Gibe e Fulvio I made the first rope-solo ascent of Via Paco.

It was during this ascent that I got the idea of creating a completely independent corridor from the base to the summit. So with my partner Angelino we repeated Le Medaglie di Mattley to evaluate their feasibility.. a few days later we are at the base of the mountain, looking for the best line. Without any pressure we took our time to establish the pitches on this wall that encompasses a small, but beautiful piece of mountaineering history.

The result is an alpine sport climb with a trad flavor ;-) The climbing is varied, up weathered slabs, overlaps and overhangs. I reckon it’s excellent, but repeaters will confirm. Hoping you like it, I wish everyone safe climbing!

A special thanks to Sandra, Chicco and all the staff at the Albani hut who made us feel like we were on vacation ;-)

Leo Gheza thanks: La Sportiva, Camp-Cassin, Alpstation Brescia

TOPO: Presolana Holiday, Presolana