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Alberto Ginés Lopez beats Tomoa Narasaki to win the Speed Finals at Tokyo 2020
Photo by IFSC
Nathaniel Coleman magical on Boulder #3 at Tokyo 2020
Photo by IFSC
Mickael Maweem: Tokyo 2020 qualifiers
Photo by Dimitris Tosidis / IFSC
Adam Ondra sub 7 seconds for the first time in his life, Tokyo 2020
Photo by IFSC

Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Men's Finals live

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Sport climbing Men's Finals of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games today. Running commentary starting from 10:30. GOLD for Alberto Ginés López, Nathaniel Coleman silver, Jakob Schubert bronze.

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LIVE - Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games 06/08/2021
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15:40

We'll end our live commentary here, thanks for having followed us, it's been a wild and exciting day. But it's not all over yet, sport climbing at Tokyo 2020 continues tomorrow morning at 10:30 CET for the women's finals. See you there. 

15:10

FINAL RESULTS MEN COMBINED

    Speed Boulder Lead Total
GOLD Alberto Ginés López (ESP) 1 7 4 28
SILVER Nathaniel Coleman (USA) 6 1 5 30
BRONZE Jakob Schubert (AUT) 7 5 1 35
4 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 2 3 6 36
5 Mickael Mawem (FRA) 3 2 7 42
6 Adam Ondra (CZE) 4 6 2 48
7 Colin Duffy (USA) 5 4 3 60
  Bassa Mawem (FRA) DNS DNS DNS DNS

14:59
GOLD for Alberto Ginés López! Nathaniel Coleman silver. Jakob Schubert bronze!!!
What an amazing competition, that went down to wire, to the very last hold here in Tokyo 2020. A show worthy of the sport climbing's first ever Olympics!

Final results Men's Lead
1 Jakob Schubert (AUT) Top
2 Adam Ondra (CZE) 42+
3 Colin Duffy (USA) 40
4 Alberto Ginés López (ESP) 38+
5 Nathaniel Coleman (USA) 34+
6 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 33+
7 Mickael Mawem (FRA) 23+
Bassa Mawem (FRA) DNS

14:56
Jakob Schubert is the last out, his climb is decisvie in assigning the first Olympic medals in men's sport climbing. The Austrian plays his last cards: this is his favorite discipline. Jakob is unstoppable. Surpasses everyone. Even Ondra. And dynoes to the top. It's Schuberts show! Bronze!

14:51
Colin Duffy after Speed and Boulder was provisional 5th. He powers upwards, one hold after the next. And continues onwards, past teammate Coleman, and also Lopez. Now he's got his sights set on Ondra 's highpoint. But then he suddenly drops off hold #40. Incredibile.

14:44
Alberto Ginés Lopez with all the power of his 18 years of age takes the stage, his youth should play him well. He looks fatigued, but the fire inside isn't spent, in the slightest. He climbs outstandingly. Past Narasaki and Coleman. Now he heads up to Ondra's highpoint, but explodes. He falls a few moves below the Czech. Ondra remains in the lead, in the Lead. Lopez though slips into provisional first placefor overal combined gold. High drama.

14:38
Now sit back and get comfortable: it's time for Adam Ondra. He hasn't shone so far, on the contrary, by his standards he fared better in Speed than in Boulder. In the Lead though perhaps he can make the miracle happen. And he sets off. As fast as lightning. One hold after the next. God he's fast. And focused. He passes the highpoints set by Mawem, Narasaki and Coleman in rapid succession. And shoots towards the top, it's in his grasp. He pushes upwards like never before, but falls just shy of the top. 41+. Nice work wonder Ondra!

14:34
America's Nathaniel Coleman was the best in Boulder. The only to send problem #2. He's the running for gold as well and, to do so, he needs to beat Narasaki's highpoint. The first section is smooth, where the holds become smaller he resists, climbs past Mawem. And one hold higher than Tomoa. Then he falls, but his score of 34+ puts him in provisional first.

14:27
Mickael Mawem is one of those gunning for gold. He climbs well, is stylish. But struggles low down, the first two specialities evidently have taken their toll, in particular Boulder. He falls well below Narasaki 23+.

14:21

Tomoa Narasaki takes the stage. The home athlete needs to defend his provisional first, on a par with Mawem and Coleman. He needs to climb as high as possible. And starts well. He's on a roll. The first part is "generous", on huge rounded holds. But then these change size acutely: the Japanese continues upwards and then suddenly falls. He's climbed high, 33+.

14:12

It's almost time for the third and final discipline in the final for the gold medal of the first Combined sport climbing Olympic Games. The first to inaugurate this last hurdle will be the Japan's Tomoa Narasaki. The final route follows the central prow. It is a bit scary, but perhaps only because this is such a historical moment, that's why it's so tense, even for us, mere spectators. At present  the athletes are observing the route.

14:03
The last discipline will kick off in a few minutes time, Lead. Here's the official start list. The first out is obviously local hero Tomoa Narasaki as Bassa Mawem did not start due to injury

Start list Lead
1 Bassa Mawem (injured)
2 Tomoa Narasaki
3 Mickael Mawem
4 Nathaniel Coleman
5 Adam Ondra
6 Alberto Ginés Lopez
7 Colin Duffy
8 Jakob Schubert

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LEAD
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13:23
Here's the updated Combined result. Just one more event to go, Lead at 14:10. Time to grab a quick sandwich!

The provisional standings after Speed and Boulder sees, tied in first place with 6 points: Mickael Mawem (FRA), Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) and Nathaniel Coleman (USA). They are followed by: Alberto Ginés Lopez (ESP) 4th; Colin Duffy (USA) 5th; Adam Ondra (CZE) 6th; Jakob Schubert (AUT) 7th. Bassa Mawem (FRA) is placed 8th, having not started due to rupturing his bicep in the last round of the qualifiers. The mind will play a fundamental role in the Lead now. The athletes, especially those up front in the provisional standing, will have to play their cards carefully and control body and mind. This is what this “marathon” formula is all about.

    Speed Boulder Lead Total
1 Mickael Mawem (FRA) 3 2   6
2 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 2 3   6
3 Nathaniel Coleman (USA) 6 1   6
4 Alberto Ginés López (ESP) 1 7   7
5 Colin Duffy (USA) 5 4   20
6 Adam Ondra (CZE) 4 6   24
7 Jakob Schubert (AUT) 7 5   35
  Bassa Mawem (FRA) dns dns dns dns


13:15
Results Boulder Men

1) Nathaniel Coleman (USA) T1z1 T3z2 z1
2) Mickael Mawem (FRA) T1z1 z1 z1
3) Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) T1z1 z3 z1
4) Colin Duffy (USA) T1z1 z3 z1
5) Jakob Schubert (AUT) T1z1 z5 z1
6) Adam Ondra (CZE) T2z1 - z1
7) Alberto Ginés Lopez (ESP) z1 z7 z1
8) Bassa Mawem (FRA) - - -

13:13
Who knows if Mickael Mawem will unlock the secret of boudler #3? The Frenchman reaches the zone first go, but then the script doesn't change: he falls. One thing is sure, Mickael is on fire today.  But here, on this evil spiral, he seems to really need even more than he's got. He eventually fails, but secures 2nd place in Boulder, behind Coleman.

13:05
For Japan's Tomoa Narasaki this boulder is fundamental. He's second in the provisional standings after Speed, and a top would project him well towards gold. He secures a zone. But then the rising sun seems  indecipherable even for him. A long rest, a final attempt. A final fall.

13:03

Adam Ondra reaches the zone first go, but then falls trying to swap hands. He tries a second time, manages to somehow stick the crimp that had spat everyone off before him. But he, too, fails.

12:58

Colin Duffy sets off and secures the zone immediately. But then falls. He tries everything in the books, but the top remains out of reach and untouched.

12:51
Problem #3 is nails. Just what Jakob Schubert needs: when the going get's tough, he always get's going. Zone first go, but then he eyes the mattress. Same story on attempts #2 and #3.

12:48
So far Nathaniel Coleman is the only athlete to have sent 2 problems. Here, on #3, he could win the competition. Zone first go, no porblem. But then his feet cuts off, he swivels and becomes undone. Great attempt. He rests, and rests, then tries a second time. No go. He leaves the stage with a zone first go.

12:39
Boulder #3 is steep. Lopez explores the overhang, this spiral that represents a rising sun. The Spaniard knows it's all or nothing, so far he's got no top. He secures the zone, then tumbles. The bloc looks very, very intense. He calls it a day. Explosive power and tiotal body tension are needed here.

12:35

France's Mickael Mawem is last out, zone secured with ease thanks to a great run and superb coordination. The top seems in his reach, but isn't. His second go could change the course of the entire competition, but it doesn't: he slips prior to the zone. He rests. Recovers. Then sets off on attempt three, but the tiny top crimp remains elusive. Boulder #2 belongs to Coleman only. The games are still wide open.

12:30

Tomoa Narasaki is the penultimate to follow in the footsteps of Coleman. He misses the dyno to the zone. But seems on fire, secures the zone, but fails to stick the top. He reaches his highpoint again, but drops off once again. No go, Coleman is Lord of boulder #2

12:26
Now it's time for Adam Ondra. Expectations are high. With huge determination he tries to run and jump to the zone, but fails twice. And three times, four and five. In the end, to some surprise, no zone and no top. This might cost him dearly. There's only one other boulder remaining.

12:21
For Colin Duffy bouder #2 isn't particularly friendly. He reaches the Zone in 3 attempts, but misses out on the top. It seems like it's in his grasp, but appearances can be deceptive. In the end he settles for the zone. Coleman's top third go is looking increasingly impressive.

12:16
Jakob Schubert is a fighter, we're used to his immense battles. And on #2 he struggles to the bitter end. Tries everything, the the zone seems out of reach. Then he figures it out, and in the dying moments he just misses the top. Leider.

12:11
Nathaniel Coleman on #2 is in search of a miracle. Zone first go. The top is in sight and looks like it's his... but he fails to stick the top, by a hair's breadth. On his third go a cunning toehook comes to his rescue. Superb.

12:05

Alberto Ginés Lopez starts the journey on #2. It's a long running jump rightwards, followed by a powerful no foot move to reach the zone. Beautiful. But not easy. The young Spaniard tries and tries again, eventually fails. Great problem, from the Zone the move to the top is deadly difficult!

12:02
Boulder #1 was flashed 5 times, Ondra sent it second go, and Alberto Ginés Lopez secured a zone only.

11:59
Mickael Mawem is in his element. On Tusday he won the Boulder Qualifiers. And today he breezes to the top; yet another flash.

11:56
Time for Tomoa Narasaki. Japan's best in provisonal second. One of the favourite for the podium and it's easy to see why: top in a brace of shakes and a controlled dyno.

11:54
Adam Ondra comes onto the mats and as fast as lighting is almost at the top. But slips. After this false start he sends it second go. He'd slipped because he tried to static the top, on his second go he changed tactics and risked the dyno.

11:50

Colin Duffy. Currently 5th. He knows he needs a perfect start. He does so calmly, with superb technique. And balance. Another flash. Block #1 needs to be sent to stay in the running.

11:48
Jakob Schubert tiptoes his way tentatively across the traverse. But he reaches the zone. Struggles to stop the barn door, gret body tension, before dynoing to the top. Flash! And screams in relief!

11:46
Coleman easily traverse across, 30 cm above the mats. Reaches the zone. Then levitates his way easily up to the top. Flash!

11:42

Alberto Ginés López starts on #1 with a delicate traverse right across a slab, almost old style before trying to climb up to slopey volumes. In the end he manages only the zone. Not an easy start for the young Spaniard. Next out Coleman.

11:30

The sun has just set and the humidity is beginning to soar even higher. The athletes are about to be introduced, prior to having 6 minutes to observe the 3 boulder problems. It's going to be another blistering final. 18-year-old, winner of Speed, will be the first out.

------------
BOULDER
------------

11:00
Next up Boulder, in 30 minutes, at 11:30 CET

10:58
Results Speed Final Combined

1) Alberto Ginés Lopez (ESP)
2) Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
3) Mickael Mawem (FRA)
4) Adam Ondra (CZE)
5) Colin Duffy (USA)
6) Nathaniel Coleman (USA)
7) Jakob Schubert (AUT)
8) Bassa Mawem (FRA)

10:54

Tomoa Narasaki vs Alberto Ginés López. HUGE UPSET! Narasaki slips, López wins. What a competition!

10:52

Adam Ondra vs Mickael Mawem. Ondra blisteringly fast, loses, but only just. Mawem 3rd, Ondra 4th.


10:51
Colin Duffy vs Nathaniel Coleman in the battle for 5th and 6th palce. Coleman starts superbly but then slips, twice.  Duffy 5th, Coleman 6th. Schubert 7th.

10:46
Tomoa Narasaki vs Mickael Mawem. The Frenchman slips once. Then twice. Amazing Narasaki in the final against López.

10:44

Adam Ondra vs Alberto Ginés López. The spaniard flies upwards and wins in 6.56. This is a huge victory.

10:43

Jakob Schubert vs Nathaniel Coleman. The AMerican gets off to a great start, 6.21 seconds, new pb. Schubert finishes 7th in Speed.

10:39
So here are the Speed semifinal heats:
Adam Ondra vs Alberto Ginés López
Tomoa Narasaki vs Mickael Mawem
Colin Duffy vs Bassa Mawem (dns)
Jakob Schubert vs Nathaniel Coleman

10:36

Mickael Mawem vs Nathaniel Coleman. Mawem slips but makes up for lost time and wins on the button. The Frenchman proceeds to the next round. Great race, the best so far.

10:34

Tomoa Narasaki 5.94, news personal best, he beats Jakob Schubert.

10:33
Colin Duffy false start. The first time ever! Alberto Ginés López doesn't need to race and qualifies to the next round.

10:30
Adam Ondra thanks his lucky stars and passes directly into the semis. For fairness he has to race, and clocks in a new personal best, 7:44. 

10:29
The ahtletes come out into the Aomi Urban Sports Park: Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Nathaniel Coleman, Alberto Ginés López, Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasak. And injured Bassa Mawem who will not compete.

10:04
While waiting for the start at 10:30 CET, here are the pairings for the Speed Quarter Finals.

SPEED
Quarter finals

Bassa Mawem (FRA) - injured
Adam Ondra (CZE) - automatically qualifies for Semifinal

Colin Duffy (USA)
Alberto Ginés López (ESP)

Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
Jakob Schubert (AUT)

Mickael Mawem (FRA)
Nathaniel Coleman (USA)

09:30
Yes, it’s Men’s Finals day in Tokyo! Today the first-ever Olympic gold, silver and bronze medals will be awarded out to sport climbing and it goes without saying that the excitement has reached fever-pitch. It is, just like the other qualification days, blistering hot in Japan’s capital, with temperatures in the region of 34°C. Add to this 60° humidity and it’s clear that today is going to be harder than ever before for the athletes who have qualified: Mickael Mawem, Tomoa Narasaki, Colin Duffy, Jakob Schubert, Adam Ondra, Alberto Ginés López, Bassa Mawem and Nathaniel Coleman.

The big, huge news unfortunately is that Bassa Mawem, who ruptured his bicep low down on the Men’s Lead route on Tuesday, is out of action for at least 6 months and will not compete today. This means that, according to regulations, the man who set the Olympic Record will score 8th and, importantly, Adam Ondra who is pitted against him will automatically pass on to the next round, and settle for at least 4th. That’s a huge advantage for the Czech climber…

This unfortunate turn of events highlights a problem in the regulations; were the speed finals based on purely on time (as in the qualifers) instead of a head-to-head sprint, a scenario of this sort wouldn’t have unfolded. Equally, had Speed not been the starting discipline of the Combined formula. But it is what it is and things cannot be changed now. This problem won’t arise in Paris 2024 as Speed has been separated from Combined Boulder and Lead. Having the fastest man out of the Games obviously gives the second fastest a head start, too, which could translate into Tomoa Narasaki placing first in Speed. But this is nothing more than pure speculation, we’ll know more in a few hours.

The Finals are scheduled to start at 17:30 Tokyo time, 10:30 CET, and with our running commentary we’ll be following the biggest completion of all.

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