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Bletterbach, possible new icefall climbed by Ladurner and Lemayer
03/02/2018 - Alpinism
Bletterbach, possible new icefall climbed by Ladurner and Lemayer
Ice climbing in Italy's South Tyrol: in the Bletterbach Gorge Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer climbed Eistänzer, a probable new 110 m high ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M6.
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
01/02/2018 - Alpinism
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.
Ice Climbing World Cup: HanNaRai Song extends her lead, Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh claims Iran's first victory
29/01/2018 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup: HanNaRai Song extends her lead, Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh claims Iran's first victory
On Saturday 27 January 2018 HanNaRai Song won Lead category in the Ice Climbing World Cup in Corvara in Val Passiria for the third consecutive time. In the men's competition there was a maiden victory when Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh became the first Iranian ever to clinch a stage victory. The...
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
28/01/2018 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical treatment, while the four mountaineers will return to their attempt...
Drama on Nanga Parbat, fears for Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol
26/01/2018 - Alpinism
Drama on Nanga Parbat, fears for Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol
High up on Nanga Parbat the Polish mountaineer Tomek Mackiewicz and France’s Elisabeth Revol have reportedly run into difficulty during their attempt to climb the mountain in winter. A rescue operation has been organised from K2.
Goodbye Miss Elizabeth Hawley, legendary chronicler of Himalayan expeditions
26/01/2018 - Alpinism
Goodbye Miss Elizabeth Hawley, legendary chronicler of Himalayan expeditions
Miss Elizabeth Hawley has passed away at the age of 95. The American journalist was recognised as a legendary chronicler of mountaineering expeditions to the Himalaya.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2018, Han Na Rai Song, Alexey Dengin win in Saas Fee
25/01/2018 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2018, Han Na Rai Song, Alexey Dengin win in Saas Fee
South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and Russia’s Alexey Dengin won the Lead discipline of the first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2018 that took place last weekend at Saas Fee in Switzerland. The Speed discipline was won by the Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Ekaterina Feoktistova. During the...
Pumori winter ascent by Alex Txikon & Co in preparation for Everest
22/01/2018 - Alpinism
Pumori winter ascent by Alex Txikon & Co in preparation for Everest
In preparation for the winter ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest, Basque alpinist Alex Txikon and Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara climbed Pumori, the beautiful 7161m summit in front of Everest. Nuri and Temba Sherpa also reached the summit. The report by Domenico Perri.
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
17/01/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Giorgia Tesio made the first female ascent of Hyaena. First climbed in 1986 by Andrea Gallo, this sport climb has remained a reference point for top end sport climbing.
Astroman, the legendary climb in Yosemite Valley
11/01/2018 - Climbing
Astroman, the legendary climb in Yosemite Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Astroman on the East Face of Washington Column, one of the most famous rock climbs in Yosemite Valley and the world.
Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
09/01/2018 - Alpinism
Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
On the Singlin rock face in Valtournenche (Valle d’Aosta, Italy) François Cazzanelli and Nicolò Buongiorno have established a new mixed climb called Il Sole di Mezzogiorno (150m, M5, 6a)
Markus Pucher and the solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia
28/12/2017 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher and the solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia
Winter mountaineering video: the first solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia, carried out by Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher on 17 September 2016.
Annapurna III Unclimbed: the David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel climbing documentary
22/12/2017 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Unclimbed: the David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel climbing documentary
The short film Annapurna III Unclimbed that documents the 2016 attempt by Austrian alpinists David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel to ascend the virgin SE Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m) in the Himalaya.
Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty
18/12/2017 - Alpinism
Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: an unknown ice climb, highly recommended by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, up Torre Vitty in the Sella massif.
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
15/12/2017 - Alpinism
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of...
Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
14/12/2017 - Alpinism
Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
Winter mountaineering in Scotland: on the Church Door Buttress at Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe the expert British mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first ascent of Lost Arrow Winter Variation, describing the demanding line as 'one of the most sustained routes' they have ever...

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