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L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc massif.
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
17/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
Interview with Italian climber Federica Mingolla who teamed up with Nicolò Geremia to repeat Via della Cattedrale (8a+ max, 800m), the famous climb up Marmolada, Dolomites
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
04/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.
Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France
02/08/2017 - Climbing
Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France
Italian climber Laura Rogora has climbed the first 8c+ section of Biographie at Céüse in France. The extension, freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma, is considered a benchmark 9a+ and was attempted in June by America’s Margo Hayes.
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
26/07/2017 - Alpinism
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.
Cima Scotoni Dolomites Direttissima climbed by Nicola Tondini
20/07/2017 - Alpinism
Cima Scotoni Dolomites Direttissima climbed by Nicola Tondini
The report by XMountain mountain guide Nicola Tondini about his first ascent of ‘Non abbiate paura di sognare’ up the SW Face of Cima Scotoni in the Italian dolomites. Established with different partners the route tackles difficulties up to X (8b) (obligatory IX-, 7b+) and checks in as one of...
Dreamtime at Cresciano, the boulder problem by Fred Nicole between dream and reality
06/07/2017 - Climbing
Dreamtime at Cresciano, the boulder problem by Fred Nicole between dream and reality
The Classics | Boulder continues with the third episode dedicated to Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland. Germany's Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm take a step back in time and explore this problem established in 2000 by Fred Nicole and hailed as the world's first 8C.
Gross Wellhorn, new alpine climbs by Silvan Schüpbach in Bernese Oberland
06/07/2017 - Climbing
Gross Wellhorn, new alpine climbs by Silvan Schüpbach in Bernese Oberland
On the North Pillar of Gross Wellhorn (Bernese Oberland, Switzerland) Silvan Schüpbach with the help of various climbing partners established two difficult multi-pitch alpine climbs, Adrenlinchiubi (7c max 7b obligatory, 250m) and Röck u Zöpf (7c max 7b obligatory, 230m).
Urko Carmona Barandiaran - climbing beyond all limits
03/07/2017 - Climbing
Urko Carmona Barandiaran - climbing beyond all limits
The video of Spanish paraclimbers Urko Carmona Barandiaran and Javier Aguilar climbing a multi-pitch route at Peñón de Ifach in Spain.
IFSC European Climbing Championships, great climbing begins at Campitello di Fassa
29/06/2017 - Competitions
IFSC European Climbing Championships, great climbing begins at Campitello di Fassa
The IFSC European Climbing Championship (Lead and Speed) takes place from today until Saturday, July 1 at the ADEL Climbing Wall in Campitello di Fassa (Italy). 226 athletes from 21 different nations will take part in the most important competition of the year.
Monte Limbara and the new trad climbing in Sardinia
23/06/2017 - Climbing
Monte Limbara and the new trad climbing in Sardinia
The latest trad climbs at Monte Limbara on the North of Sardinia, first ascended by Maurizio Oviglia and Filippo Manca. Oviglia provides the report.
Why Alex Honnold's Free Solo of El Cap Scared Me. By Tommy Caldwell
16/06/2017 - Climbing
Why Alex Honnold's Free Solo of El Cap Scared Me. By Tommy Caldwell
We have kindly received permission by both Outside Magazine and Tommy Caldwell to republish Caldwell's article about Alex Honnold and his incredible first free solo of El Capitan (Yosemite Valley, USA) via the climb Freerider.
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
01/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
From 2 to 3 August 2016 Giorgio Travaglia, Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Ricordi nebbiosi (IX-A1), an almost 1200m high route up the NW Face of Cima della Busazza (Civetta, Dolomites).
Christoph Hainz cleans up Der Fluch der Kamine at Sass dai Tamersc, Dolomites
09/05/2017 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz cleans up Der Fluch der Kamine at Sass dai Tamersc, Dolomites
On the South Face of Sass dai Tamersc Christoph Hainz has reequipped Der Fluch der Kamine (VII-, 390m). According to mountain guide from the South Tyrol this climb 'has the potential to become a classic rock climb' in the Italian Dolomites.

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