1529 News found

Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...

The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.

On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.

Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.

At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.

German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.

Good weather has resulted in a series of hard trad repeats in Wales by the likes of James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet.

Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.

New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.

On 24 August 2018 American climber Tom Frost died aged 81. Frost was one of the pioneering climbers and photographers during the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing.

Climbing ground-up and in a single push, Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Odyssee, the difficult alpine outing up the Eiger completed in 2015 by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl.

Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.

Interview with Swiss alpinist Daniel Arnold who on 27/07/2018 climbed the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif in a record-breaking 2 hours and 4 minutes.

The video documenting the Grivel Day at Courmayeur. On 5 August 2018 Grivel Courmayeur celebrated its 200th anniversary and its timeless, boundless love for mountaineering.

On 27 July 2018 Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold climbed the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif in just 2 hours and 4 minutes.

On Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites Giorgio Pirovano, Nicola Castagna and Sara Ongari established Agrodolce, a new 6-pitch rock climb first ascended ground-up, onsight, with bolts only at the belays and difficulties up to grade VII.