Home page Planetmountain.com
Barbara Zangerl edging her way up the spectacular Stemming Corner on the Pre-Muir Wall up El Capitan in Yosemite, together with Jacopo Larcher. 'One of the most aesthetic pitches I've ever seen!'
Photo by Jacopo Larcher
Barbara Zangerl repeating the Pre-Muir Wall up El Capitan in Yosemite, together with Jacopo Larcher
Photo by Jacopo Larcher
The hands of Jacopo Larcher after an attempt on the Stemming Corner Pitch on the Pre-Muir Wall up El Capitan in Yosemite
Photo by Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher on the summit of El Capitan in Yosemite after having repeated the Pre-Muir Wall with Barbara Zangerl
Photo by Jacopo Larcher

Barbara Zangerl climbs Pre-Muir Wall, beautiful big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite

di

Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl accompanied by her partner Jacopo Larcher has completed a free ascent of the Pre-Muir Wall, a beautiful big wall up El Capitan in Yosemite.

"It's not The Nose but maybe even better." This is how Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl announced her free ascent of the Pre-Muir wall on El Capitan in Yosemite. This amazing big wall is a free variation to the famous Muir Wall established by Yvon Chouinard and TM Herbert, and freed by Rob Miller and Justen Sjong in 2007 by combing sections of Muir Wall with The Shaft, The Shield and virgin terrain. The 30-pitch outing weighs in at 5.13d and offers a spectacular stemming corner crux and a thin, endurance layback pitch close to the top.

Zangerl and Larcher got off to a slow start due to poor weather that initially forced them to leave the valley, and on their return they set their sights on The Nose after an autumn 2018 attempt. Unfortunately the crux pitches were wet and so they repeated the lesser-known Father Time, a difficult 20-pitch outing put up by Mikey Schäfer on Middle Cathedral, located directly opposite El Capitan.

After a few rest days the duo then opted for the Pre-Muir wall. As usual, Larcher and Zangerl swung leads on the easy pitches and then both led the more difficult ones. The start proved promising, with both onsighting or sending second go all the pitches on the lower half of the route. At the famous stemming corner though their team-free progress ground to a halt.

Larcher told planetmountain.com "I tried this pitch for a day and in the evening fell right at the end, tearing the skin on the palms of my hands. The next day I decided to abandon my free attempt so as not to slow Babsi down." The duo continued, with Larcher supporting Zangerl’s free bid as much as possible. After 6.5 days they summited, with Zangerl thanking not only her climbing partner, but also Britain’s Hazel Findlay who had inspired her after her first repeat in 2012 with Neil Dyer and James McHaffie.

Zangerl has now free climbed four big walls on El Capitan, all obviously with Larcher: Magic Mushroom in 2017, Zodiac in 2016 and El Niño in 2015. An important detail worth highlighting: the two started up the Pre-Muir intent on making a ground-up, single push ascent, launching into the unknown with all the food and gear necessary for dealing with a big wall of this dimension and difficulties. Their "one single push" proved successful, one of the most beautiful big walls of all.

In other Yosemite news, Alex Honnold and Brad Gobright have repeated what is known as the Pineapple Express, ie the totally free variation to El Niño established by Sonnie Trotter in 2018. Honnold and Gobright set off at 4.00pm and summited shortly after dawn after "a brutal 14.5 hour ascent". Gobright then climbed Golden Gate all free in 16.5 hours. Nearby, The Nose was climbed by 10-year-old Selah Schneiter accompanied by her father Mike Schneiter and friend Mark Regier.

Links: FB Jacopo Larcherjacopo-larcher.comFB Barbara Zangerlbarbara-zangerl.atLa SportivaThe North Face, Black Diamond

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Magic Mushroom: Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl and the magical big wall on El Capitan
26.06.2018
Magic Mushroom: Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl and the magical big wall on El Capitan
Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after their first repeat of Magic Mushroom on El Capitan in Yosemite, carried out in December 2017.
El Capitan Magic Mushroom first repeat by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
11.12.2017
El Capitan Magic Mushroom first repeat by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first free repeat of Magic Mushroom, the difficult big wall climb freed by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Zodiac Free on El Capitan by Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
16.11.2016
Zodiac Free on El Capitan by Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
After 5 days on the wall Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a free ascent of the Zodiac, the historic big wall climb on the southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Yosemite valley and climbing in Never Never Land. By Jacopo Larcher
18.11.2015
Yosemite valley and climbing in Never Never Land. By Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher talks about his first climbing trip to Yosemite Valley, USA with Barbara Zangerl, during which they repeated El Nino (5.13c, 800m) on El Capitan and other granite big wall climbs.
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07.12.2018
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra