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Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Simon Messner completes solo ascent of unclimbed Geshot Peak / Toshe III in Pakistan
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner completes solo ascent of unclimbed Geshot Peak / Toshe III in Pakistan
The South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Messner has made a solo ascent of Toshe III, a 6,200m mountain in Pakistan that had never been climbed before, known locally as Geshot Peak.
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
Alex Puccio: pure bouldering power and passion
26/06/2019 - Interviews
Alex Puccio: pure bouldering power and passion
Interview with American climber Alex Puccio, one of the most accomplished female boulderers in the world.
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
13/06/2019 - Alpinism
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
On Croz dele Mirandole (Roccione di Ranzo) at Ranzo in the Sarca valley, Italy, Nicola Cont, Martin Giovanazzi and Elio Mazzalai have made the first ascent of Speta che Vegno, a new multi-pitch climb they established ground-up.
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
12/06/2019 - Interviews
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
Interview with blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton who the famous trad climbing route The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, the achievement has been recognised by the Scottish parliament.
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
05/06/2019 - Climbing
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, has repeated world famous trad climb The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. First ascended by in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie, this 6-pitch outing is a true symbol of...
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.
Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
23/05/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák have climbed a new route up the NW Face of Chamlang in Nepal.
Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena
15/05/2019 - Alpinism
Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena
Mountaineers Cory Richards from the USA and Esteban ‘Topo’ Mena from Ecuador are currently trying to forge a new climb up the NE Face of Everest. Kami Rita Sherpa has just climbed the highest mountain in the world for a record-breaking 23rd time.
Punta dell'Orco: Beber, Lanzafame and Maganzini ski Canale dell'Orco
Punta dell'Orco: Beber, Lanzafame and Maganzini ski Canale dell'Orco
Marco Maganzini reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of 'Canale dell'Orco', carried out on 22/03/2019 with Alessandro Beber and Claudio Lanzafame on Punta dell'Orco (3069m) above Val Genova in Adamello massif of the Italian Alps.