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Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
On 20/04/2019 Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto Dallavalle skied the Northeast Face of Cima di Bon in the Adamello - Presanella group. This is likely to be the first ski descent.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Madeleine Cope deals with difficult trad slab Prinzip Hoffnung
03/04/2019 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope deals with difficult trad slab Prinzip Hoffnung
Britain’s Madeleine Cope has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs. First ascended by Beat Kammerlander in 2009, this is hailed as one of the hardest trad climbs in Austria.
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
30/03/2019 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
While Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of his 8c+ project in Japan aged 50, in Spain 30-year-old Sachi Amma has redpointed his third 9b, Stoking the fire at Santa Linya.
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
In the Brenta Dolomites Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto skied the west couloir of Cima Brenta (3151m) on 09/03/2019, while on 25/03/2019 they skied the NW Face of Cima del Vallon (2968m).
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.
Cimon della Pala: Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba forge new mixed climb in Dolomites
16/03/2019 - Alpinism
Cimon della Pala: Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba forge new mixed climb in Dolomites
On 24/02/2019 Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba made the first ascent of Via degli Allievi up the north face of Cimon della Pala. About 700m high and with difficulties around AI5 M4, this is likely to be a new mixed climb in the Pale di San Martino group in the...
Aiguille de la Brenva mixed climbs in Mont Blanc massif by Ezio Marlier, Gianpaolo Ducly
12/03/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de la Brenva mixed climbs in Mont Blanc massif by Ezio Marlier, Gianpaolo Ducly
Ezio Marlier introduces Million Reasons and Sole, two modern mixed climbs on the East Face of Aiguille de la Brenva in the Mont Blanc massif, established with Gianpaolo Ducly.
For Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard lost forever on Nanga Parbat
09/03/2019 - Alpinism
For Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard lost forever on Nanga Parbat
The news broke a short time ago that the search has officially been called off on Nanga Parbat for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard, the two mountaineers who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February.
Nanga Parbat, search and rescue flight for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard postponed to tomorrow
07/03/2019 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat, search and rescue flight for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard postponed to tomorrow
Alex Txikon has announced that he has identified two silhouettes on Nanga Parbat with a telescope from base camp. The helicopters, however, failed to fly to base Camp today and the search and rescue operations have been postponed until tomorrow, weather permitting.
Nanga Parbat, no trace of Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard on the Kinshofer route
06/03/2019 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat, no trace of Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard on the Kinshofer route
This morning the search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard on the Kinshofer route proved unsuccessful. Tomorrow on Nanga Parbat the search will resume for the two climbers who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February.
Nanga Parbat search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard continues
05/03/2019 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard continues
No substantial news from Nanga Parbat while the group of rescuers coordinated by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon worked hard at searching the mountain for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February. Tomorrow the search efforts will continue

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