Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák have climbed a new route up the NW Face of Chamlang in Nepal.
Breaking news from the Himalaya: Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák have climbed a new route up Chamlang, a 7321m peak close to Makalu in Nepal. At present there are few details to go on, but after having acclimatised the two spent a total of 8 days climbing the huge mountain alpine style, forging a direct line up the circa 2000, highly coveted NW Face and then descending down the SW Ridge.
The duo battled hard against poor snow and bad rock during the ascent and the descent proved testing, too, forcing them to endure three days without food.
In August 2017 Holeček and Hák established an impressive, 8-day new route up the SW Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters) which earned them a Piolets d’Or, while in May 2018 the two teamed up to forge a new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal.
Holeček and Hák are now safely back in base camp, from where we hope to receive further details in due course.
Share
NEWS / Related news:
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special mentions have been awarded for the ascent of Nilkanth by Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase and Jason Thompson and also to Alex Honnold for his outstanding contribution to climbing in the year 2017. Andrej Štremfelj to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up to M4/WI5+, 95° and crossed four individual summits. Holeček, who climbed a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 m) in 2017, provides the report.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
