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Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
19/12/2015 - Climbing
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
In August 2015 on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria Alexander Luger made the first ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m).
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch...
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
09/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c at Osso (Piemonte, Italy) freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012, this time greenpoint ie skipping the bolts and using trad gear to protect the climb. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites,...
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus
03/12/2015 - Climbing
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus
British rock climbers Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus have made the first repeat of The Secret Passage, the 5.13c (8a+) climb on El Capitan established ground-up in 2008 by Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Lapoterapia at Osso
02/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Lapoterapia at Osso
Italy’s Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c sports climb located at beautiful Osso, freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012 and repeated only by Gabriele Moroni. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his...
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
30/10/2015 - Climbing
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
Marzio Nardi reports about Rock Slave XP 2015, the climbing trip to Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa and the Lucane Dolomites in Basilicata, Souther Italy. A journey inspired by the famous book "Mezzogiorno di pietra" published in 1985 by Alessandro Gogna.
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first free ascent of Voodoo-Zauber (IX-, 180m) on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc (2718m) in the Dolomites.
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was...
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
16/10/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.
Much Mayr frees the Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo
12/10/2015 - Climbing
Much Mayr frees the Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo
On 27/08/2015 Much Mayr, climbing with Guido Unterwurzacher, made the first free ascent of the Spanish Route on the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult...
Maja Vidmar and her first multi-pitch climb in the Dolomites
01/10/2015 - Alpinism
Maja Vidmar and her first multi-pitch climb in the Dolomites
The report by Slovenian sports climbing champion Maja Vidmar who this summer climbed her first multi-pitch route in the Dolomites, the famous Comici - Dimai on Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

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