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Difficult Pembroke trad climbing by Zangerl, Larcher & Co
10/07/2017 - Climbing
Difficult Pembroke trad climbing by Zangerl, Larcher & Co
Barbara Zangerl, Lara Neumeier, Roland Hemetzberger and Jacopo Larcher have repeated numerous difficult trad climbs during their climbing trip to Pembroke in Wales, including The Big Issue E9 6c and Muy Caliente E9/E10.
Gross Wellhorn, new alpine climbs by Silvan Schüpbach in Bernese Oberland
06/07/2017 - Climbing
Gross Wellhorn, new alpine climbs by Silvan Schüpbach in Bernese Oberland
On the North Pillar of Gross Wellhorn (Bernese Oberland, Switzerland) Silvan Schüpbach with the help of various climbing partners established two difficult multi-pitch alpine climbs, Adrenlinchiubi (7c max 7b obligatory, 250m) and Röck u Zöpf (7c max 7b obligatory, 230m).
L’Olandese Volante, new rock climb in Val di Mello
04/07/2017 - Climbing
L’Olandese Volante, new rock climb in Val di Mello
Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have established ‘L’Olandese Volante’, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Precipizio degli Asteroidi in Val di Mello, Italy.
Marek Raganowicz / Baffin Island big wall interview
03/07/2017 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz / Baffin Island big wall interview
Interview with Polish climber Marek Raganowicz after his solo first ascents of MantraMandala (A3) and Secret of Silence (A4), two difficult big wall climb up the Ship's Prow on Scott Island, Baffin Island, Canada.
King of the Bongo, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini make swift repeat in Val di Mello
28/06/2017 - Climbing
King of the Bongo, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini make swift repeat in Val di Mello
On 22/05/2017 Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini repeated King of the Bongo, the route first climbed in 2014 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera.
Dent Blanche and Wandfluegrat, the normal South Ridge route
21/06/2017 - Alpinism
Dent Blanche and Wandfluegrat, the normal South Ridge route
Mountaineering in Switzerland: Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces the famous Wandfluegrat, also referred to as the Dent Blanche South Ridge (4357m), the classic alpine ridge high above Val d'Herens in Switzerland’s canton Valais.
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
01/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
From 2 to 3 August 2016 Giorgio Travaglia, Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Ricordi nebbiosi (IX-A1), an almost 1200m high route up the NW Face of Cima della Busazza (Civetta, Dolomites).
King of Kanzi - Kanzianiberg in Austria to host 1980’s Climbing Festival
24/05/2017 - Events
King of Kanzi - Kanzianiberg in Austria to host 1980’s Climbing Festival
From 2 to 5 June 2017 Kanzianiberg in Austria will host King of Kanzi, the 1980’s climbing festival. Special guests include Nives Meroi, Romano Benet, Steve House, Jacopo Larcher, Markus Pucher, Michael Kemeter, Lisi Steurer, Lorraine Huber and Thomas Brandauer.
Marek Raganowicz adds big aid climbs to Baffin Island
20/05/2017 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz adds big aid climbs to Baffin Island
Polish climber Marek Raganowicz has made the first ascent of two difficult big walls on the Ship's Prow on Baffin Island, Canada: MantraMandala (A3) and Secret of Silence (A4).
Alaska: Greg Boswell and Will Sim climb two big new climbs routes above Buckskin Glacier
04/05/2017 - Alpinism
Alaska: Greg Boswell and Will Sim climb two big new climbs routes above Buckskin Glacier
In April 2017 Greg Boswell and Will Sim made the first ascent of two big new alpine climbs in the Central Alaskan Range: Beastiality up Bear's Tooth and Shark Fishing on a mountain on the opposite side of the Buckskin Glacier.
Cengia Giradili, the panoramic new crag in Sardinia
20/04/2017 - Climbing
Cengia Giradili, the panoramic new crag in Sardinia
Richard Felderer introduces the new crag Cengia Giradili at the foot of famous Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia. 22 new routes from 5b to 8b in a spectacularly beautiful setting.
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
14/04/2017 - Interviews
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after the first free ascent of Gondo Crack at the crag Cippo in Switzerland. The duo freed the route as an 8c sport climb and then did without the bolts and climbed the route with nuts and friends to produce one of the...
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
13/04/2017 - Alpinism
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
Mountaineering on the Matterhorn: from 15 - 16 March Alexander Huber from Germany and Switzerland’s Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf climbed a new route up the legendary North Face of one of the symbols of the Alps. The new climb is called Schweizernase and shares the start of the Gogna-Cerruti...
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell
19/03/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell
The entire film A Snowball's Chance in Hell, featuring Austrian alpinists David Lama and Peter Ortner making the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out in January 2012.
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
16/03/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
In summer 2016 German rock climber made the first free ascent of Ganesha, a seven-pitch 8c he had established alone up the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Alm in Austria. Buhl climbed rope solo.
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
15/03/2017 - Climbing
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a pioneer and advocate of clean climbing, i.e. without pegs and...

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