1074 News found

Politically incorrect thoughts after a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, one of the best rock climbing destinations in the world and currently extremely popular among the climbing community. By Maurizio Oviglia.

Alessio Miori reports about the first ascent of Happy Ending, a new ice climb in Val Trementina (Paganella, Italy), first ascended on on 22-23/12/2016 together with the Luca Caldini, Giordano Faletti, Mattia Piffer and Stefano Vulcan.

Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).

Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.

Luca Vallata reports about the first ascent of La Bruixa, a new icefall in Val Zemola, Dolomites, climbed on 05/01/2017 together with Santiago Padrós.

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

On 13 December 2016 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer made the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall (260m, WI6, M7+, A1), the obvious drip that plunges down the Northeast Face of Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in Italy’s South Tyrol.

Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.

Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.

At the start of September 2016 Slovakian climber Jozef Kristoffy made the first free ascent of Corona 11- on Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch rock climb in the High Tatras.

Last summer an Austrian expedition comprised of Alex Blümel, Max Reiss, Manuel Steiger, Lisi Steurer, Roman Weilguny and Michael Zwölfer made the first ascent of three new climbs in Kyrgyzstan.

Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.

Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.