Gross Wellhorn, new alpine climbs by Silvan Schüpbach in Bernese Oberland

"Perfect limestone set in a wild, remote ambient. During hot summer days this new area is a refreshing secret!" This is how Silvan Schüpbach describes ‘his’ Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland where, as of 2014, he established two difficult multi-pitch climbs. The routes tackle the mountain’s North Pillar which according to the Swissman "resembles the Geneva Pillar on the North Face of the Eiger" and offers "not only great climbing but also spectacular views onto the Wetterhorn and the hanging glacier."

The routes are called Adrenlinchiubi and Röck u Zöpf and tackle difficulties up to 7c (7b obligatory). Even if protected with bolts, Adrenlinchiubi needs integrating with nuts and friends. Röck u Zöpf is "significantly more demanding, and even if the pro is good, there’s a chance of taking some long (but never "dangerous") falls."

The North Pillar is reached from the Rosenlaui valley in circa 2 .15 hours on foot. After circa 1.15 hours a bivouac is reached which acts as a great refuge during storms. "It’s certainly worth spending the night up here" the 34-year-old stated "you can collect water at the bivouac in a pot (very slowly) or from the slabs below the face. Those who wish to climb somewhere different this summer, on perfect rock and in a superb setting won’t be disappointed."

Download the topo of the climbs up the Gross Wellhorn Nordpfeiler

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