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Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire...
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
22/09/2015 - Climbing
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
This summer Luca Cornella Michel Ghezzi made the first ascent of La Guerriera, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Bassa d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
21/09/2015 - Climbing
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
Fulvio Zanetti talks about the first ascent of Maleficent (320mt 7c+, 7a+ oblig), established together with Francesco Beni up the NW Face of Cimon della Bagozza, Orobic Alps. The new multi-pitch rock climb up the symbol of Val di Scalve...
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
17/09/2015 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
This summer in Fischleintal, just a stone’s throw from the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the South Tyrolean alpinists Markus Tschurtschenthaler and Hannes Pfeifhofer, and Lisi Steurer from Austria’s East Tyrol made the first ascent of Weg der Neugier, a...
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
13/09/2015 - Climbing
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
One of the most famous moderate routes in Yosemite, Snake Dike on Half Dome, was lit up on 29 August 2015 to raise awareness for the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) and highlight safety issues concerning rebolting and regularly maintaining...
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Della Funivia, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino
04/09/2015 - Climbing
Della Funivia, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino
In September 2014 Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel made the first ascent of Della Funivia (7c, 300m), a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
27/08/2015 - Alpinism
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
Over a ten-day period in July 2015 Silvan Schüpbach and Bernadette Zak attempted to make the first free ascent of the 1200m high Piteraq up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland. Except for a 3m pendulum on pitch 22, the swiss alpinists climbed...
Il bianco calimero, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
20/08/2015 - Climbing
Il bianco calimero, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
On 6/08/2015 Andrea Galizzi, Francesco and Gabriele Carrara made the first ascent of Il bianco calimero (150m, max 6c, 6b obl.) a new rock climb up the East Face of Croz del rifugio, Brenta Dolomites, Rifugio Tosa Pedrotti.
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
19/08/2015 - Climbing
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
Luca Bastia introduces Croux, in Valgrisenche, the beautiful crag Valle d’Aosta, ideal for rock climbing on hot summer days.
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
17/08/2015 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
In August 2015 Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth completed Via degli studenti, an important new rock climb up the legendary NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites.
Cani sciolti, new rock climb up the Solada Face in Switzerland's Ticino
05/08/2015 - Climbing
Cani sciolti, new rock climb up the Solada Face in Switzerland's Ticino
On the Solada Face in Valle Maggia, Canton Ticino, Switzerland, Walter Polidori, Tommaso Lamantia & Co have completed the first ascent of the multi-pitch rock climb Cani sciolti.