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Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
30/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
From 21 to 22 February Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská made the first ascent of Mystery (85 °, M8, C1, 600m (15 pitches) on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. Húserka reports.
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia
19/03/2020 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc after their first ascent of Mir, a new climb up Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia.
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
05/03/2020 - Alpinism
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
During a committing rock climbing expedition in February 2020 to Valle de la Plata in Chile’s Northern Patagonia, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee established Bailando con la Lluvia, a 700m big wall up the west face of the hitherto virgin peak Pared de La Plata. After...
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
25/02/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella reports about his repeat with Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Pasquetto of the 40º Gruppo Ragni di Lecco climb on the north face of Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia, established in 1986 by Mario Panzeri, Paolo Vitali, Marco Della Santa and Daniele Bosisio. While this is likely...
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
18/02/2020 - Interviews
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
Interview with 29-year-old German mountaineer Fabian Buhl who on 7 February flew off Cerro Torre in Patagonia with his paraglider.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker. Hinterberger reports.
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
31/01/2020 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
22/01/2020 - Alpinism
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
In the Rätikon massif in Switzerland German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has completed the first free ascent of Déjà, a 400m multi-pitch alpine rock climb graded 8c+.
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Thomas Huber unlocks his Stone Age up Untersberg in Berchtesgaden Alps
04/01/2020 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber unlocks his Stone Age up Untersberg in Berchtesgaden Alps
At the start of November 2019 German alpinist Thomas Huber frees his multi-pitch climb Stone Age (8b+) on Untersberg in Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany.

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