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Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
13/02/2020 - Alpinism
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.
Laghel off-limits at Arco
29/01/2020 - Climbing
Laghel off-limits at Arco
Climbing is currently forbidden at Laghel in Arco, one of the most difficult crags in Italy and in the world.
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
27/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Italian alpinist Matteo Della Bordella has repeated Itaca nel Sole on the Caporal in Valle Orco. Established in 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello, this multi-pitch route was freed in 2003 by Cristian Brenna.
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
24/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana
21/01/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana
Swissman Cédric Lachat has repeated Pachamama, the 9a+ established by Chris Sharma in 2009 at Oliana in Spain.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Elias Iagnemma completes historic Grotti project, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo
07/01/2020 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma completes historic Grotti project, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo
At the Italian crag Grotti, Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of an old project made famous by local climber Alessandro Lamberti, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo. Iagnemma suggests the grade 9a/+
Laura Rogora and Gabriele Moroni end 2019 on a high at Margalef
01/01/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora and Gabriele Moroni end 2019 on a high at Margalef
At Margalef in Spain Gabriele Moroni has repeated Demencia Senil 9a+ while Laura Rogora has sent Pal Norte 8c+/9a.
Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy
17/12/2019 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy
On 26 November 2019 Filip Babicz completed Ade Integrale, a testing dry tooling route in the Gran Borna cave close to La Thuile in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. The Pole suggests D15+. The route is completely natural but, being total dry, climbs no ice whatsoever.
Karoline Sinnhuber highballs hard in Austria’s Zillertal
12/12/2019 - Climbing
Karoline Sinnhuber highballs hard in Austria’s Zillertal
Austrian climber Karoline Sinnhuber has climbed Knockin' on heavens door, an 8A+ highball boulder problem in the Zillertal.
Jérémie Heitz and La Liste: Everything or Nothing
Jérémie Heitz and La Liste: Everything or Nothing
The trailer to the La Liste: Everything or Nothing, the film documenting extreme skiers Jérémie Heitz and Samuel Anthamatten as they travel the globe to ski some of the most beautiful and difficult mountains in the world.
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
21/11/2019 - Climbing
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
Eliza Kubarska provides the latest updates about the climbing on the elusive Mystery Wall situated in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman Island in Malaysia.
Ryuichi Murai frees United, 8C+ boulder in Japan
13/11/2019 - Climbing
Ryuichi Murai frees United, 8C+ boulder in Japan
25-year-old boulderer Ryuichi Murai has made the first ascent of United, an 8C+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan.