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Belgian rock climber Nico Favresse in action
Photo by Jan Novak
Belgian rock climber Nico Favresse deep water soloing in Greece
Photo by Jan Novak
Nicolas Favresse making the first repeat of Greenspit, 8b+, Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Photo by Bernardo Gimenez
Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva, departing for the climbing at at Gibbs Fjord on Baffin Island, Greenland
Photo by Nicolas Favresse archive

An ordinary day for Nico Favresse

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An ordinary day of Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse, for the last 20 years one of the driving forces in the climbing world, seen through the eyes of Jan Novak.

Ever since the start of the new millennium Nicolas Favresse has been an absolute reference point for the climbing world. After starting off indoors, the Belgian soon transferred his climbing, and also artistic, skills to the most inaccessible big walls in the world. Most of his ascents were carried out with with long-time climbing partner Sean Villanueva and although listing all his climbs is impossible, some routes stand out more than others.

Lost in translation is a case in point. Located on El Capitan in Yosemite, Favresse partnered with with Ivo Ninov in 2006 to establish the first and, at present, only big wall on El Cap to be first ascended ground-up in a single push. In 2010 he and his team explored the coasts of Greenland by fair means and ventured up numerous trad climbs, earning him a Piolet d’or, with a year later he teamed up with Villanueva to make their milestone on-sight, single push ascent of the Royal Flush + El Corazon combo on the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia. In 2017 he returned to Patagonia and checked in with the first free ascent of El dono de Mwono on the Torres del Paine, while last year back in the Fitz Roy massif in he explored new routes up Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Standhardt.

While big walls are Favresse’s bread and butter, he’s equally at home on hard single pitches and in 2008 Nico had claimed the first repeat of Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada, at the time the hardest crack in the world. In 2013 this accolade went to his very own The Recovery Drink at Jossingfjord in Norway.

Favresse’s verve is legendary and with his motto "mai mollare", never give up, pretty much the only thing that can keep up with him is his mandolin. Enjoy this short film about the 41-year-old seen through the eyes of pro photographer and filmmaker Jan Novak.

Info: www.scarpa.net

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Interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent, carried out with fellow-Belgians Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee, of the big wall rock climb El Regalo de Mwono (1200m, 8a) located on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
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Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse exalts the beauty of climbing at night.
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Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
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Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, El Cap exploration in Yosemite
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Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, El Cap exploration in Yosemite
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Nicolas Favresse repeats Cobra Crack, Squamish, Canada
On 18/07/2008 Nicolas Favresse made the second ascent of Cobra Crack, first climbed by Sonnie Trotter at Squamish, Canada in 2006.
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Nicolas Favresse has made the first repeats of "Greenspit" 8b+ and "Itaca nel sole" 8b in the Orco valley, Italy.
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Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
On 30 August Nicolas Favresse made the first ascent of "Lost in translation" a 400m, 10-pitch free climb (5.12b/c) on the East Face of El Capitan together with 30-year-old Ivo Ninov from Bulgaria.
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A strong young Belgian team comprised of Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Seán Villanueva, Mike Lecomte and Philippe Ceulemans has made a rare repeat of Riders on the Storm, situated in the Torres del Paine and undoubtedly one of the crown jewels in Patagonia's repertoire of classic climbs.

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