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New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
19/02/2016 - Alpinism
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
In January and February 2016 the Japanese climbers Takaaki Nagato and Jumbo Katsutaka Yokoyama established two new routes in Patagonia: Knobmania (7c, 400m) up the West Face of Aguja El Tridente and Pilar Canino (7b, 600m) up the West Face...
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing...
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by...
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
15/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in...
Cesare, son of San Mauro
09/02/2016 - Trekking
Cesare, son of San Mauro
The mountains are the last resort to save biodiversity. In this AKU film the Italian botanist Cesare Lasen talks about his life as scientist and man of the mountains.
Trekking Peaks in Nepal's Khumbu Himal
19/01/2016 - Alpinism
Trekking Peaks in Nepal's Khumbu Himal
Italian Mountain Guide Rudy Buccella discusses his recent trip to the Trekking Peaks of Nepal. To remind us, even in this post-earthquake period, of how beautiful these mountains are and how much help the Nepalese people direly need.
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
15/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and...
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed...
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and...
Lost Arrow Spire highline, the first crossing by Scott Balcom
06/01/2016 - Climbing
Lost Arrow Spire highline, the first crossing by Scott Balcom
Original footage of the first slackline crossing of the Lost Arrow Spire, carried out by Scott Balcom on 13/07/1985 above Yosemite Valley.
Here today gone tomorrow, new Val di Mello rock climb up Scoglio delle Metamorfosi
29/12/2015 - Climbing
Here today gone tomorrow, new Val di Mello rock climb up Scoglio delle Metamorfosi
In 2014 Pietro Biasini, Daniele Bianchi and Mirko Masè established the first seven pitches of Here today gone tomorrow (X-, 215m) on Scoglio delle Metamorfosi in Val di Mello, Italy. In November 2015 Bianchi and Masé completed the climb in...
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
18/12/2015 - Alpinism
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.....
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
15/12/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established...
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
15/12/2015 - Interviews
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
Interview with talented Italian climber Annalisa De Marco who, on only her third attempt, sent Disney Production, an 8A+ boulder problem at Brione, Canton Ticino, Switzerland.