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Climbing Bramosia Scura, Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites
Photo by archive Peter Manhartsberger
Climbing Bramosia Scura, Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites
Photo by Peter Manhartsberger
Climbing Bramosia Scura, Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites
Photo by Peter Manhartsberger

Bramosia Scura, new rock climb in Sella group, Dolomites

Peter Manhartsberger reports about the first ascent, carried out together with Klaus Gössinger, of Bramosia Scura (6c+, 145m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the North Face of Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites.

Whenever I'm in the mountains, I’m always on the look out for possible new lines. My camera and climbing guidebooks are my most important tool. In the summer of 2015 I happened to go back to the Vallon amphitheater in the Sella group of the Dolomites and a line up the shady North Face of Cima Vallon caught my eye.

At the Franz Kostner hut the warden and mountain guide Manuel told me what I wanted to hear: not one route breached the face. And if anyone knew, it was probably him. After all, he knows more or less all the routes in the area, seeing that he’s repeated or established most of them himself.

My friend Klaus Gössinger is easy to motivate for new routes. He is also a really strong climbers - both physically and mentally. Then along came the beautiful, very warm summer weather and we both had the entire weekend off. My employer gave us the gear (many thanks at this point!) and off we went to the Dolomites.

None of us had much experience at ground-up bolting but that certainly didn’t dampen our enthusiasm. From the top of the Boè cable car we continued on in to the Vallon amphitheater and walked to the base of the wall, sorted our gear and started the works.

The rock turned out to be so compact that it didn’t accept any traditional pro. Although we had Friends clipped to our harnesses, we almost exclusively bolted when hanging off skyhooks or while climbing. The rock quality turned out to be very good. The only two rules we made was, firstly, ground-up, and secondly, no drilling the next bolt while hanging off the previous one!

On the first day we forged nearly four pitches. In the end we were both extremely tired, physically and mentally. Klaus was so motivated though that we stashed all the gear at the base in order to continue the next day.

The next morning we were both very tired. While repeating the first four pitches our hopes were confirmed: the climbing was great and so was the route. I was so spent mentally that all I did was belay Klaus, who did all the drilling that day. Shortly before the storm arrived Klaus managed to establish the last belay.

A few weeks later we returned with Cathy for the first redpoint ascent and to take a few pictures. We also discussed the grades and added the finishing touches to our beautiful routes. I wish all those who repeat the routes and appreciate all feedback.

TOPO: Bramosia Scura, Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites

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