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New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
13/10/2020 - Climbing
New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
On Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Stephan Weckschmied have made the first ascent of four short plaisir climbs: Zeugungsschmerz (IV, 75m), Schwere Geburt (IV-, 100m), Y Chromosom (VI+, 60m) and X Chromosom (VI, 95m)
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
02/10/2020 - Interviews
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain
30/09/2020 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated El Bon Combat, the 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain established in 2015 by Chris Sharma.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Gorropu featuring Aleksandra Taistra, film streaming today at 21
21/09/2020 - Climbing
Gorropu featuring Aleksandra Taistra, film streaming today at 21
The film Gorropu, a portrait of Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra repeating the famous multi-pitch Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, will be streamed on Monday 21 September 2020 from 21:00 to 24:00 on the website ferrino.it.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
18/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Alexander Megos flashes Underground 9a at Arco
15/09/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Megos flashes Underground 9a at Arco
Yesterday at Massone in Arco German rock climber Alex Megos managed to flash Underground, Italy’s historic 9a established by Manfred Stuffer in 1998.
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
14/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
07/09/2020 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Nathaniel Coleman believes in The Grand Illusion 8C+
27/08/2020 - Climbing
Nathaniel Coleman believes in The Grand Illusion 8C+
The video directed by Ben Neilson documenting the first ascent of The Grand Illusion, an 8C+ boulder problem at Little Cottonwood Canyon in the USA first ascended by Nathaniel Coleman.

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