New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
On Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Stephan Weckschmied have made the first ascent of four short plaisir climbs: Zeugungsschmerz (IV, 75m), Schwere Geburt (IV-, 100m), Y Chromosom (VI+, 60m) and X Chromosom (VI, 95m)
Austrian climber Peter Manhartsberger has been busy in the Karwendel massif, adding four easy new routes to the weathered limestone slabs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf, in the Im Verbrennten sector above the Hinterautal.
Manhartsberger teamed up with Stephan Weckschmied in late April and then again in early October to establish Zeugungsschmerz (IV, 75m), Schwere Geburt (IV-, 100m), Y Chromosom (VI+, 60m) and X Chromosom (VI, 95m). Described as "plaisir climbs on perfect rock" in a beautiful, tranquil setting, the routes ascend to the left of Flugverbot and Plattenfieber and are fully bolted. Conditions on the south-facing slab are ideal in spring and autumn and a path through the mountain pines has been cleared.
These new climbs are a far more amenable addition to the Karwendel than Manhartsberger’s previous line, Prime Time on the steep Repswand, which was freed recently by Much Mayr with difficulties "at least 8b".