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Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Curvas Peligrosas, steep skiing in Peru
Curvas Peligrosas, steep skiing in Peru
The trailer for Curvas Peligrosas, the film directed by Yannick Boissenot documenting a month spent in Peru together with Frederic Gentet and Stéphane Roguet where the trio made several steep skiing descents including Artesonraju, Huascaran and Tocllaraju.
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
28/10/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route and established a new line up the West Face.
Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux
21/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux
French alpinists Hélias Millerioux, Frédéric Degoulet and Niçois Benjamin Guigonnet have made an alpine style ascent of a new route up the South Face of Nuptse, Nepal Himalaya
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
12/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
24-year-old German alpinist Jost Kobusch claims the first ascent of Nangpai Gosum II, the 7296 meter high mountain located on the border between Nepal and China.
Farewell Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins, an indescribable tragedy for alpinism
11/10/2017 - Alpinism
Farewell Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins, an indescribable tragedy for alpinism
27-year-old Hayden Kennedy and his girlfriend Inge Perkins have lost their lives. Kennedy was considered one of the leading climbers of his generation.
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
09/10/2017 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010 when, together with Silvo Karo, Knez was conferred the Order...
Nanga Parbat summit success for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and seven other mountaineers
05/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat summit success for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and seven other mountaineers
On 02/10/2017 at 12:40 Sherpa Mingma Gyalje reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8126 meters, Karakorum, Pakistan). The Sherpa summited with 7 other mountaineers, including Pakistan’s Muhammad Ali Sadpara.
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
02/10/2017 - Alpinism
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
Mountaineering in the Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan: in the Ak-Su region the Slovak mountaineers Martin Grajciar, Ondrej Huserka, Jozef Kristoffy and Vladimir Linek spent seven weeks from July 27th to September 10th 2017 making the first ascent of 'Summer Bouquet', a new climb up the West Face of Pik Aleksander Blok...
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
10/08/2017 - Climbing
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
America’s Sasha DiGiulian and Spain’s Edu Marin have made what is believed to be the second free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
04/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.
Climbing in the Dolomites: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher find and free Oblivion
28/07/2017 - Alpinism
Climbing in the Dolomites: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher find and free Oblivion
On Piz Ander in the Gadertal, Dolomites, Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have first ascended and freed Oblivion (IX, 275m).
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
27/07/2017 - Alpinism
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
In the Indian Kishtwar Himalaya the Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj and Urban Novak have climbed two new routes: All or nothing (6250 m) up the West Face of Arjuna (6250 m) and the North Ridge of P6013 (6038 m). Both climbs were carried out alpine style.
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Steve House, looking back on the Denali Slovak Direct
19/07/2017 - Alpinism
Steve House, looking back on the Denali Slovak Direct
17 years after his ground-breaking ascent, American alpinist Steve House looks back on the extremely fast repeat of the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (Alaska), climbed with Mark Twight and Scott Backes in 60 hours non-stop.

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