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Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
Monte Pelmetto, Dolomites: the ski descent by Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba
Monte Pelmetto, Dolomites: the ski descent by Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba
The report of the first ski descent, carried out on 15 May 2013 by Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba off the summit of Monte Pelmetto in the Dolomites.
Super Domo, new route up Cerro Domo Blanco in Patagonia by Schaefer, Neil and Joel Kauffman
09/01/2014 - Alpinism
Super Domo, new route up Cerro Domo Blanco in Patagonia by Schaefer, Neil and Joel Kauffman
On 2 January 2014 the Americans Joel Kauffman, Neil Kauffman and Mikey Schaefer made the first ascent of Super Domo (V 600m WI5 M6) up the east face of Cerro Domo Blanco in Patagonia.
Amidst the stories of alpinism and climbing in 2013
01/01/2014 - Alpinism
Amidst the stories of alpinism and climbing in 2013
A brief and by no means complete journey through the stories and the climbs of 2013, while waiting for new year.
Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti make first ascent of Cerro Marconi Central in Patagonia
30/12/2013 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti make first ascent of Cerro Marconi Central in Patagonia
Colin Haley from America and Rolando Garibotti from Argentina have grabbed the first ascent of La SuperWhillans, a striking ramp up the east face of Cerro Marconi Central in Patagonia.
Dutch expedition makes first ascent of NE Face of Great Walls of China
04/12/2013 - Alpinism
Dutch expedition makes first ascent of NE Face of Great Walls of China
On 16/08/2013 Bas Visscher, Vincent Perrin and Bas van der Smeede from Holland made the first ascent of Double Trouble (TD-, AI4, 800m) up the North-east face of the Great Walls of China (circa 5120m) in the Kokshaal-Too massif in Kyrgyzstan.
Tierra de Condores, the route up Ritacuba Blanco in Columbia
26/11/2013 - Alpinism
Tierra de Condores, the route up Ritacuba Blanco in Columbia
In February 2010 Helmut Gargitter, Simon Kehrer, Gonzalez Rubio and Ivan Calderon made the first ascent of Tierra de Condors (7a+, 800m), a new route up Ritacuba Blanco (5350m) in Colombia.
Civetta, rock fall on Su Alto in the Dolomites
21/11/2013 - Environment
Civetta, rock fall on Su Alto in the Dolomites
On 16 November 2013 a portion of the NW arête collapsed from Cima Su Alto in the Civetta group, Dolomites.
Torres del Paine South Tower: Wall of Paine
20/11/2013 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South Tower: Wall of Paine
Mike Turner, Jerry Gore, Calum Muskett and Raphael Jochaud have made the first ascent of Wall of Paine up the SE Face of South Tower of Torres del Paine, Patagonia. The four were stopped 100m below the summit due to bad weather.
Kang Nachugo East, Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic establish Monsoon
06/11/2013 - Alpinism
Kang Nachugo East, Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic establish Monsoon
On 21 and 22 October 2013 Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic made the first ascent of Monsoon (1500m /75°) up the SW Face of Kang Nachugo East, Rolwaling valley, Himalaya, Nepal.
Magnus Kastengren dies in fall from Mount Cook
04/11/2013 - Alpinism
Magnus Kastengren dies in fall from Mount Cook
32-year-old Swedish extreme skier Magnus Kastengren has lost his life in a fall from Mount Cook in New Zealand.
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
08/10/2013 - Alpinism
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata introduce their variation to Li-Cuore (450m, VII+, A3, VII- obl.) that climbs between the South Tyrolean route and Via Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner (Dolomites).
Dolomites: large rockfall on Cadin del Laudo, Sorapiss group, Dolomites
01/10/2013 - Environment
Dolomites: large rockfall on Cadin del Laudo, Sorapiss group, Dolomites
Last night at around 23:00 a large rockfall affected the Cadin del Laudo, Sorapiss group, Dolomites.
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
13/09/2013 - Alpinism
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the east face of Demirkazik, Ala Daglar, Turkey.
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
24/07/2013 - Alpinism
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the east face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by Gianmario Bellini in memory of Roberto Perucca.
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco
22/07/2013 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco
Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach have safely reached Base Camp after having forged a new route up the West Face of Uli Biaho (6109m), Trango, Pakistan.