Home page Planetmountain.com
Wetterbockwand, Berchtesgaden Alps Austria.
Photo by Alexander Huber archive
Wetterbock (8c, 10 pitches, F.A. Alexander Huber, FFA Alexander Huber, Michi Althammer 18/09/2014 ), Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps Austria.
Photo by Alexander Huber archive
INFO / links & info:

Alexander Huber climbs difficult Wetterbock multipitch


The report by German alpinist Alexander Huber who, on 18 September 2014 together Michi Althammer made the first free ascent of Wetterbock (8c, 10 pitches) up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.

I see the Wetterbockwand every morning from my balcony, while I sip my first cup of coffee, so you could call it my breakfast wall. It looks steep, the rock on Mount Göll is superb quality and the face I'm attracted to is located in a particular, exposed position, high up on Göll's 1000m high East Face. I've often looked at it and wondered what it would be like to climb it? Last autumn the time finally came to check it out for myself!

A long approach, first a wild traverses from Ahornkaser to Wilder Freithof followed by a 600 m scramble up Grade I and II terrain, past the compact limestone slabs, leads to the base of the route. Göll's East Face isn't too steep and that what makes it a classic ski descent in the Berchtesgadener Alps. In short, a good three hours are needed to reach the start of the climb.

Over three days in September 2013 I managed to make the first ascent, alone, and I would have continued and completed my efforts with the redpoint ascent. But the crux pitch was anything but easy, and the early snow in mid-September dashed my hopes. I got back on the route only last summer, and given our August this was no mean task. The incessant rain didn't make things easier, but luckily the pitches up to the large roof remained dry. I had to remain on the ball if I wanted to send it and in the end this payed off: On 18 September, after much rain and waiting around, Michi Althammer and I pulled off the redpoint ascent. As it happened, Franz Hinterbrandner was there to document the entire ascent! On days like those things simply couldn't be better. It was steep, it was beautiful... and sadly it's all over!

From a purely technical perspective the Wetterbockwand isn't as difficult as the 8c+ crux pitch on Nirwana but overall, with its 3-hour approach through the Göll East Face, it's by no means less demanding. And certainly one of the more demanding in alpine environment.

by Alexander Huber

04/11/2008 - Alexander Huber interview





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer