Amity Warme repeats Pre-Muir Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite

American climber Amity Warme has made a free ascent of the Pre-Muir Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite. The 33-pitch route was established in 2007 by Justen Sjong and Rob Miller and follows pitches of Muir Wall, The Shaft, and The Shield, with some added 5.13 pitches, up the middle of El Capitan.

After a few day missions from the ground to check out the first couple of crux pitches and prehaul supplies, Warme set off on 30 October with habitual climbing partner Brent Barghahn.

The pair battled hard both against the technical difficulties of the climb and the intense heat - many of the crux pitches were in full sun from 7 am onwards and not cooled off again until 7 pm, significantly reducing the window for successful redpoints. Much of the the time was spent waiting for the right conditions in the portaledge but the sports dietitian persevered and topped out on the 10th of November with Nelson Klein and Felipe Nordenflycht who had substituted Barghahn on day 9 of the endeavour.

Warme led all the hard pitches and described the effort as "one of the hardest things I have done in my climbing career."

The PreMuir Wall is Warme's fifth big wall free climb on El Capitan, after Freerider and Golden Gate in 2021, El Corazon in 2022 and El Niño ground-up in 2023.