493 News found

The words and video of Nicolas Favresse about his latest project, a beautiful and difficult trad climb in Norway.

On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.

On Saturday 12 January 2013 Giorgio Bertagnolli and Cristian Defant made the first repeat of Via Valeria on Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites, the ice climb established on 6-7 January 2013 by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti with difficulties up to VI- ice, M6, VI+ rock.

On 27/12/2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first ascent of Sprindrift (600m, VIII-, M6, WI VI, A1) up the North Face of Laserz, Lienzer Dolomites, Austria.

On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.

Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb 'Brothers' up Cima Grostè and the rock climb 'Ladri' up Campanile Basso.

Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects

A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.

In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.

On Cerro Murallón in Patagonia Lise Billon, Pedro Diaz, François Poncet, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan have made the first ascent of Sol Naciente (1000m, 7b A1 WI6 M6).

On 03/10/2012 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of "Relikt Noichl Wörndl" (350m, 8b/8b+) in Austria's Wilder Kaiser mountain chain.

On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

In Valle dell'Orco Alex Ostorero and Enrico Griotto have made the first ascent of Waiting for the sun behind the moon (7b, 6b obl./RS2/II).