Home page Planetmountain.com
Relikt Noichl Wörndl" (350m, 8b+) in the Wilder Kaiser massif, Austria, freed by Roland Hemetzberger on 03/10/2012.
Photo by Roland Hemetzberger
INFO / links & info:

Roland Hemetzberger frees climb in the Wilder Kaiser


On 03/10/2012 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of "Relikt Noichl Wörndl" (350m, 8b/8b+) in Austria's Wilder Kaiser mountain chain.

"A 350 metre face, 13 pitches, VI-/A2, first ascent in 1957, just a few repeats, bad protection, loose rock - these are the hard facts about the legendary Noichl Wörndl, also known as Direkte Ostwand located on the Fleischbank in the Wilder Kaiser massif. It sounded like a great adventure."

An adventure for German climber Roland Hemetzberger which materialised into five new pitches - pretty much a direct start to avoid the loose rock - to the route established by Mathias Noichl and Hans Wörndl in July '57. After another relatively easy pitch came the real difficulties, the three pitches established with the use of aid. Hemetzberger, Christian Denk and Fabian Hagenauer used the gear left in-situ 50 years ago "to preserve the original character of the route" but added bolts at the belays to breach difficulties up to 8b/8b+. A further two new pitches (both with just a single bolt) led to easier terrain and the final 3 pitches of the original route.

Hemetzberger freed the line on 3 October and Relikt Noichl Wörndl is now the third route in the Wilder Kaiser which ascends these difficulties, after his recent first free ascent of Südwand and obviously after Des Kaisers neue Kleider (8b+) established in 1994 by Stefan Glowacz.

Relikt Noichl Wörndl

The individual pitches: 7-,5,9+,9+/10-,9,6,8b/8b+,9-,9-,7,4,3,3





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer