493 News found

Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).

Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)

This summer Tomas Brt (Czech Republic), Vlado Linek and Jan Smolen (Slovakia) visited Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord where they established two new routes, Turbo (VIII+, A2,1450m) on the South Face of Ketil and Keep Panic, Please (VIII, 1270m)  up the NW Face of  the N summit of Ulamertorsuaq.

Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.

On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.

On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the South Face of Presolana Centrale.

Cortina Mountain Guida Enrico Maioni presents Via Leila, a new climb up Cason de Formin in the Dolomites first ascended by Aldo Vascellari, Federico Zanettin and Giovanni Zanettin.

Austrian climbers Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have made the first free ascent of L'ultimo dei paracadutisti (8b+, 750m), the superb route established by Mariano Frizzera, Paolo Leoni and Graziano Maffei up the South Face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.

At the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites the French climbers Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit have repeated Alpenliebe and Camillotto Pellesier. Bodet shares her thoughts about these two climbs.

English climber Hazel Findlay has visited the Italian crag Cadarese where she repeated, amongst others, the famous route The Doors.

On 17/06/2012 Luka Lindic and Andrej Grmovšek completed the first ascent of Rajceva (8a, 250m) up the North Face of Križevnik in Slovenia.

On 02/06/2012 Fabio Failla and Luigi Filocamo made the first ascent of Monaco di Clausura (5 pitches, 6c max, 6b+ obligatory) up the north face of Pizzo Monaco, San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily.

Interview with Polish climber Marek Raganowicz who in April and May 2012 established a new big wall climb, Superbalance (VII, A4, M7+) up Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island together with Marcin Tomaszewski.

Interview with American climber Hans Florine after his 17/06/2012 speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite set with Alex Honnold.

On the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Alexander and Samuele Majoni have made the first ascent of Spigolo Sam (6c, 500m circa).

On 25-26/02/2012 Alessandro Baù and Enrico Geremia carried out the first repeat, and first winter ascent, of the route Andamento Lento in Val Scura (Dolomites), established by Gigi Dal Pozzo, Maurizio Fontana and Venturino De Bona in 1997. The report by Alessandro Baù.