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Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
21/04/2010 - Alpinism
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
20/04/2010 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
Even if spring is at the doorstep, it's worth analysing the climbs of Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, who this winter carried out the first ascent in Patagonia together with Roger Schäli before repeating the famous Phantom der Zinner on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites together with Marc...
Maja Vidmar 8b+ on-sight at Oliana, Spain
14/04/2010 - Climbing
Maja Vidmar 8b+ on-sight at Oliana, Spain
Maja Vidmar from Slovenia has carried out her first ever on-sight of an 8b+, Humildes pa casa 8b+ at Oliana, Spain
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
07/04/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
17-year-old Adam Ondra has carried out the first ascent of Goldrake 9a+, a route bolted by Bruno "Camos" Tassi years ago at Cornalba, Italy.
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
01/04/2010 - Environment
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
Reducing the traffic in the Dolomites, an initiative promoted by the Governor the the Trentino region, the SAT, the CAI (Italian Mountaineering Club), the Bolzano Mountaineering Club and also Reinhold Messner.
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
30/03/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
29/03/2010 - Climbing
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
On 06/12/2009 Alex Luger from Austria carried out the first repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad route established by Beat Kammerlander at the Bürser Platte in Austria.
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
23/03/2010 - Alpinism
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
On 07/03/2009 Silvio Reffo from Vicenza carried out a rare repeat of Drumtime, the super route at Fonzaso.
Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.
Norway ice climbing trip for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
12/03/2010 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing trip for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
Ice climbing to ice climbing around the Lyngen Fjord in Norway by Albert Leichtfreid from Austria.
Giovanni Cantamessa, goodbye from the climbing world
10/03/2010 - Competitions
Giovanni Cantamessa, goodbye from the climbing world
After a long ordeal Giovanna Cantamessa died on 9 March 2010. Born in Turin and brought up in Bologna, the 55 year old had been coach and irreplaceable body and soul of the Italian Sport Climbing Federation since 2002.
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
09/03/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
German climber Ines Papert provides her report and views of British winter climbing after her first ice climbing trip to Scotland.
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
08/03/2010 - Competitions
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...

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