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Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the west face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide Vitale to make the first repeat of the SW Ridge...
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the west face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...
Universal Studio, new mixed climb on Rognon du Plan (Mont Blanc) by Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan
20/05/2016 - Alpinism
Universal Studio, new mixed climb on Rognon du Plan (Mont Blanc) by Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan
On 5 May 2016 Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan made the first ascent of 'Universal Studio', a new mixed climb graded M8/650m on Rognon du Plan (3601m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line
Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line
The video of the fracture line of the avalanche that on Saturday, March 12, 2016 killed six ski mountaineers on Schneebiger Nock (3358m) in Ahrntal, Italy. This is reportedly the most deadly avalanche accident in the South Tyrol in 25 years.
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
05/03/2016 - Alpinism
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
Jozef Kristoffy, Martin Krasnansky and Vlado Linek have made the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (8b, 700m) on Cerro Trinidad Central in the Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
19/02/2016 - Alpinism
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
In January and February 2016 the Japanese climbers Takaaki Nagato and Jumbo Katsutaka Yokoyama established two new routes in Patagonia: Knobmania (7c, 400m) up the west face of Aguja El Tridente and Pilar Canino (7b, 600m) up the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.

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