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Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25/12/2018 - Alpinism
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy
16/12/2018 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy
Egyptian rock climber Wafaa Amer report about her repeat of Hyaena, the milestone in Italian sports climbing freed by Andrea Gallo in 1986 at Finale Ligure.
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Shawn Raboutou climbs Off the Wagon Low, first 8C+ in Switzerland
29/11/2018 - Climbing
Shawn Raboutou climbs Off the Wagon Low, first 8C+ in Switzerland
American climber Shawn Raboutou has made the long-awaited first ascent of Off the Wagon Low, in Val Bavona. Reportedly graded 8C+, this is now the hardest boulder problem in Switzerland.
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
15/11/2018 - Alpinism
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Cédric Lachat at Jansegg repeats Pirmin Bertle 9a+
11/10/2018 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat at Jansegg repeats Pirmin Bertle 9a+
At Jansegg in Switzerland Cédric Lachat has repeated La Cène du Roi Lézard, the 9a+ established in 2017 by Pirmin Bertle.
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
04/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
20/09/2018 - Alpinism
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
Six quick tips for rock climbing at the Cinque Torri from the Cortina Mountain Guides, prior to the upcoming meeting Delicious Climbing Dolomiti scheduled to takes place on Sunday 23 September 2018. By Paolino Tassi
Cinque Torri and the Delicious Climbing Dolomiti contest 2018
13/09/2018 - Events
Cinque Torri and the Delicious Climbing Dolomiti contest 2018
On Sunday 23 September 2018 the Cinque Torri crags in the Dolomites above Cortina d’Ampezzo will host the 2nd Delicious Climbing Dolomiti climbing contest. A rock climbing competition in pairs, open to everyone, part of the third Delicious Festival.
Giuliano Cameroni at Rocklands beams up The Smile
13/09/2018 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni at Rocklands beams up The Smile
Swiss climber Giuliano Cameroni reports about The Smile at Rocklands, South Africa, a boulder problem he freed at 8C which he believes is 'a contender for one of the best problems in the world'.
Eiger Odyssee repeated by Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee repeated by Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher
Climbing ground-up and in a single push, Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Odyssee, the difficult alpine outing up the Eiger completed in 2015 by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl.

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