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Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
24/11/2010 - Alpinism
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Goodbye Chloé Graftiaux
23/08/2010 - Climbing
Goodbye Chloé Graftiaux
On Saturday 21/08/2010 Chloé Graftiaux, the Belgian sport climbing champion and one of the strongest athletes in the world ranking, died after falling from the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mont Blanc).
Rock Master 2010, the athletes in the special Arco pre-World Championship
09/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010, the athletes in the special Arco pre-World Championship
The worldclass version of the Rock Master takes place in Arco from 16 -18 July. A quick glance at the 170+ athletes taking part in this important event which acts as a pre-event to the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar win the first Winter Military World Games
25/03/2010 - Competitions
Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar win the first Winter Military World Games
The Sport Climbing competition at the first Winter Military World Games was an unforgettable event and was won by the Slovenians Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar.
Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana
22/03/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana
On 13/03/2010 Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic repeated Golpe de estado 9b at Siurana, his hardest climb to date.
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
09/03/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
German climber Ines Papert provides her report and views of British winter climbing after her first ice climbing trip to Scotland.
Iker Pou climbing interview
26/02/2010 - Interviews
Iker Pou climbing interview
Iker Pou from Spain is one of the world's most talented rock climbers, with cutting-edge climbs spanning from 9a+ at the crag to 8a at 6000 meters. In this interview he shares his climbing thoughts after his repeat of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef.
When icefalls crack
25/02/2010 - Alpinism
When icefalls crack
The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first redpoint ascent.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.

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