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When icefalls crack
25/02/2010 - Alpinism
When icefalls crack
The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first redpoint ascent.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Enzo Oddo, four 9a's in two months
12/10/2009 - Climbing
Enzo Oddo, four 9a's in two months
In a mere two months 14 year old Enzo Oddo from France has redpointed four routes 9a or harder, three of which are located at the Gorges du Loup.
Stevie Haston interview
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston interview
Interview with British climber Steve Haston after his recent first ascent of Descente Lolitta at the Grotte de Sabart in Ariege, France.
Bouldering World Cup 2009: Fischhuber and Noguchi reign supreme
16/06/2009 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2009: Fischhuber and Noguchi reign supreme
Kilian Fischhuber from Austria and Akiiyo Noguchi from Japan won the final stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2009 in Eindhoven last weekend and also won the Bouldering World Cup 2009. Rustam Gelmanov from Russia and Anna Stohr from Austria won silver, while Natalija Gros from Slovenia and Gabriele...
Bouldering World Cup 2009: the final battle
11/06/2009 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2009: the final battle
On 12 and 13 June the 5th and final stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2009 will take place in Eindhoven, Netherlands. The race for supremacy is between Rustam Gelmanov and Kilian Fischhuber, while Noguchi Akiyo is favourite for the women's category, ahead of Anna Stöhr.
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
22/04/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
40 year old Yuji Hirayama has amde the first ascent of The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan.
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
22/04/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
40 year old Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan.
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
18/03/2009 - Alpinism
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
A selection of icefalls at Sottoguda, one of the most important venues in NE Italy.
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Ice World Cup 2009: Markus Bendler and Angelika Rainer win in Saas Fee
26/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: Markus Bendler and Angelika Rainer win in Saas Fee
Markus Bendler from Austria and Angelika Rainer from Italy won the Ice Climbng World Championship and the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup, held in Switzerland's Saas Fee last weekend. Russian athletes Maria Tolokonina and Pavel Gulyaev doubled their Daone success and won the Speed event.

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