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Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
28/02/2011 - Interviews
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
09/02/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 took place in Busteni, Romania on 5 and 6 February and was won by the Italian Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park from Korea. With this vicotry the two are also crowned World Champions, and this is Rainer's second consecutive...
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett return to Helmcken Falls, Canada
31/01/2011 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett return to Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada and Tim Emmett from Britain have returned to the Helmcken Falls in Canada and added a further 4 pitches to last season's Spray On.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
24/11/2010 - Alpinism
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Goodbye Chloé Graftiaux
23/08/2010 - Climbing
Goodbye Chloé Graftiaux
On Saturday 21/08/2010 Chloé Graftiaux, the Belgian sport climbing champion and one of the strongest athletes in the world ranking, died after falling from the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mont Blanc).
Rock Master 2010, the athletes in the special Arco pre-World Championship
09/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010, the athletes in the special Arco pre-World Championship
The worldclass version of the Rock Master takes place in Arco from 16 -18 July. A quick glance at the 170+ athletes taking part in this important event which acts as a pre-event to the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar win the first Winter Military World Games
25/03/2010 - Competitions
Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar win the first Winter Military World Games
The Sport Climbing competition at the first Winter Military World Games was an unforgettable event and was won by the Slovenians Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar.