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Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
07/12/2012 - Alpinism
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012 - Competitions
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012. The last stage of the Lead World Cup held last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, was won by home-athlete Mina Markovic who has now won her second overall World Cup. In the men's event Austria's Jakob Schubert won the Kranj stage while second-placed Sachi Amma from Japan won his first...
Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint
30/10/2012 - Climbing
Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint
At Red River Gorge (USA) Adam Ondra has flashed Southern Smoke Direct 9a, while young Ashima Shiraishi has repeated the 8c+ climbs Southern smoke and Lucifer.
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview
24/10/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview
The Czech climbing phenomenon Adam Ondra talks about competitions, his first months after high school, climbing at his limit and future projects in this detailed interview.
Lead World Cup, Jain Kim and Ramon Julian Puigblanque win in Puurs
25/09/2012 - Competitions
Lead World Cup, Jain Kim and Ramon Julian Puigblanque win in Puurs
The 4th stage of the Lead World Cup 2012 was won last weekend by Jain Kim from Korea and Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain. Reigning World Champion Jacob Schubert was disqualified for having used a means of communication while in isolation.
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
17/09/2012 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
The 12th World Climbing Championship took place in Paris last week. Lead was won by the Austrians Jakob Schubert and - for a record breaking fourth time - Angela Eiter. Boulder was won by Mélanie Sandoz from France and - for the third time - Dmitry Sharafudtinov from Russia. Yuliya...
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Alex Puccio win Rock Master Boulder 2012
02/09/2012 - Competitions
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Alex Puccio win Rock Master Boulder 2012
2/09/2012. At the Arco Climbing Stadium Alex Pucciogtom America won the Rock Master Boulder 2012, beating Melissa Le Neve (Fra) and Katharina Saurwein (Aut). Russia's Dmitrii Sharafutdinov won the men's event by beating his teammateRustam Gelmanov and Slovenia's Klemen Becan.
Schubert and Fakhritdinova win the Duel
02/09/2012 - Competitions
Schubert and Fakhritdinova win the Duel
The Ennio Lattisi Trophy, alias the Duel, was won by Jakob Schubert and Dinara Fakhritdinova who beat Adam Ondra and Angela Eiter respectively.
Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina
01/09/2012 - Competitions
Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina
Leonardo Gontero raced to the historic first-ever Italian victory in the Speed World Cup during the Arco Rock Master di Arco. Russia's Alina Gaydamakina won the women's event.
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
17/07/2012 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
With regards to last Thursday's tragedy which claimed the lives of 9 climbers on Mont Maudit, we have received the thoughts of Dr. Luigi Festi, director of the International Masters Course in Mountain Medicine at the University of Insubria and Medical Commission President of the Lombardy branch of the...
Lead World Cup 2012: Sachi Amma and Mina Markovic win in Chamonix
16/07/2012 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2012: Sachi Amma and Mina Markovic win in Chamonix
The debut to the Lead World Cup 2012 was won last weekend by an amazing Sachi Amma and by Mina Markovic, more combative than ever before. The Speed event was won by Stanislav Kokorin from Russia and Aleksandra Rudzinska from Poland. Russian Yuliya Levochkina set the new female speed world...
Mazeno Ridge: Nanga Parbat summit not yet reached
12/07/2012 - Alpinism
Mazeno Ridge: Nanga Parbat summit not yet reached
Contrary to Cathy O'Dowd's Twitter message last night, the South African alpinist has now published new messaged in which she makes clear that the summit has not yet been reached,. Her climbing partners Sandy Allan, Rick Allen and the Sherpa Rangduk and Zarok are currently on a summit push.