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Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
25/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three bivouacs.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
21/11/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
Picos de Europa: Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá add Vibora to Urdón
27/10/2020 - Climbing
Picos de Europa: Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá add Vibora to Urdón
Eneko and Iker Pou, climbing with Kico Cerdá, have made the first ascent of Vibora (180m, 8a) up the overhanging Urdón face close to Barranco de la Hermida in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Cadarese Tribe repeated by James Pearson
22/10/2020 - Climbing
Cadarese Tribe repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson has made the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher.
Luka Lindič, Ines Papert float up Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
21/10/2020 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič, Ines Papert float up Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany.
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
20/10/2020 - Climbing
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
Spanish rock climber Edu Marin has made the first free ascent of Arco Iris, a 200m multi-pitch climb graded 8c+ at Montserrat in Spain, first ascended in 1979 as an aid climb by Armand Ballart and German Folch.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Video: Adam Ondra climbing Atene Naturale at Massone, Arco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Video: Adam Ondra climbing Atene Naturale at Massone, Arco
The climbing video of Adam Ondra making the first free ascent of Atene Naturale 9a at Massone in Arco, Italy.
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
18/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

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