Rosengarten Dolomites climb in memory of Andrea Concini
Mountain guide Marco Bozzetta reports about the new multi-pitch rock climb established up Pala di Socorda (Dirupi di Larsec, Rosengarten group, Dolomites) with Giovanni Andriano. The new route is dedicated to Andrea Concini who perished last winter on the north face of Cima Brenta, and with whom Bozzetta had started the route.
On Saturday 13 June I finally managed to complete this new route route, dedicated to Andrea Concini who tragically passed away last winter on the north face of Cima Brenta.
I had started this route with Andrea last autumn, then winter came and we were forced to put things on hold… then on 29 December the tragic accident.
After not climbing for a while due to the coronavirus pandemic I didn’t feel on top form, but I promised myself nevertheless I’d go back and finish the job. I owed it to myself to overcome the trauma, and to forever bind Andrea’s name to the mountains he loved so dearly.
Between alternating moods and mixed emotions we reached the summit at 4 pm, just before the arrival of a storm that would have inevitably prevented us from continuing. This time I was with Giovanni Andriano, whom I thank infinitely for having accompanied me. He obviously didn’t replace Andrea, but he gave me the strength and joy to finish this climb. Standing on the summit was an intense, emotional moment.
The route we established is a grandiose outing, providing traditional climbing through a wild and impressive section of the wall between the 19707 Schubert Werner route and the 1973 Platter-Rizzi.
The climbing is both challenging and athletic, past grade VI and VII difficulties throughout, where you need to know how to protect yourself, even if all the gear we used on the first ascent was left insitu in order to facilitare future repeats. All belays are equipped with solid bolts, which guarantee safety and also easy and fast rappels.
In my opinion this route is really worth repeating, it’s perhaps the best I’ve ever climbed, certainly the one that provided me with the most emotions.
This is also the reason why I’m really happy, because from now on we can always remember Andrea, and how great his love for the mountains was.
by Marco Bozzetta