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First winter ascent of Expander enchainment in Poland’s Tatra mountains
18/03/2021 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Expander enchainment in Poland’s Tatra mountains
From 2 - 4 March Polish mountaineers Maciek Ciesielski, Piotr Sułowski and Kacper Tekieli made the first winter ascent of Expander, reputed to be the most famous link-up of four existing routes in the Tatras in Poland.
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
17/03/2021 - Alpinism
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
On Punta Centrale dei Sfulmini in the Brenta Dolomites Franco Nicolini and Davide Galizzi have made the first ascent of the rock climb La Piccozza nella Roccia. Nicolini reports about the route dedicated to his friend Giuliano Stenghel.
Petit Dru West Face: GMHM establish BASE
04/03/2021 - Alpinism
Petit Dru West Face: GMHM establish BASE
From 18 to 22 February 2021 the French alpinists Thomas Auvaro, Léo Billon, Jordi Noguere and Sébastien Ratel belonging to the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group have climbed BASE on the West Face of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif. The route partially follows an attempt made by the...
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
04/03/2021 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
17/02/2021 - Alpinism
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
Maximilian Buck reports about the first winter ascent of Franz Rasp Ged. Weg up the huge east face of Watzmann (Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany), carried out in December 2020 with Lando Peters.
Video: 2015 Salathé Wall Speed record by Alix Morris, Libby Sauter
02/02/2021 - Climbing
Video: 2015 Salathé Wall Speed record by Alix Morris, Libby Sauter
Watch Libby Sauter and Alix Morris set the female speed record on Salathé Wall in Yosemite Valley in October 2015.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
The Secret Garden on Pointe de Blonnière, new ski descent by Paul Bonhomme, Vivian Bruchez
The Secret Garden on Pointe de Blonnière, new ski descent by Paul Bonhomme, Vivian Bruchez
On 05/01/2021 Frenchmen Paul Bonhomme and Vivian Bruchez skied a new line on Mount Blonnière 2362m, Aravis, called The Secret Garden.
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
21/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
Watch the first episode of Petzl legend Tour Italia, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
18/12/2020 - Climbing
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
Above Imst in Austria Angela Eiter has made the first ascent of Madame Ching, her most difficult first ascent to date.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, the trailer about sport climbing at Finale Ligure
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl legend Tour Italy, the trailer about sport climbing at Finale Ligure
The trailer to Petzl legend Tour Italy, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing.
Goodbye Doug Scott
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye Doug Scott
British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
01/12/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...

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