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Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...
Rampage, the classic American bouldering movie featuring Chris Sharma
03/04/2020 - Climbing
Rampage, the classic American bouldering movie featuring Chris Sharma
The classic American bouldering movie Rampage featuring Chris Sharma has been placed online by Reel Rock.
Eleonora Delnevo: the sound of the epidemic affecting us all
28/03/2020 - Environment
Eleonora Delnevo: the sound of the epidemic affecting us all
'This is my city. This is Bergamo. This is the sound of the epidemic affecting us all.' Italian mountaineer Eleonora Delnevo shares the pain of her city battling against the coronavirus.
Aguja Poincenot, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva climb another two routes in Patagonia
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva climb another two routes in Patagonia
Belgian alpinist Nicolas Favresse reports about another two routes climbed with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia: Beggars Banket (7a, 400m) first ascended on the East Face directly above the Whillans ramp and, on the South Face, the first repeat and first free ascent of Historia interminable (6c,...
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For Friends
12/03/2020 - Alpinism
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For friends
On the North Face of Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climbed Za prijatelje, For friends. This combination of four summer rock climbs transforms into a logical winter line circa 1000m high and was climbed with one bivouac from 15-16 February 2020. This is probably...
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
05/03/2020 - Alpinism
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
During a committing rock climbing expedition in February 2020 to Valle de la Plata in Chile’s Northern Patagonia, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee established Bailando con la Lluvia, a 700m big wall up the west face of the hitherto virgin peak Pared de La Plata. After...
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Davide Capozzi introduces the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif, recently descended on snowboard and ski with Alessandro Letey. Also referred to as Voie du 1894, in 2016 Capozzi made the first known descent with Michèle Curtaz and Federico Camangi.
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
25/02/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella reports about his repeat with Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Pasquetto of the 40º Gruppo Ragni di Lecco climb on the north face of Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia, established in 1986 by Mario Panzeri, Paolo Vitali, Marco Della Santa and Daniele Bosisio. While this is likely...
Apus added to Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites
20/02/2020 - Alpinism
Apus added to Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites
Winter mountaineering in the Zoldo Dolomites: on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero the mountaineers Mirco Grasso and Alvaro Lafuente have made the first ascent of Apus, a mixed route that shares the first 5 pitches of Madre Tierra then ascends an evident gully all the way to the summit. Grasso reports
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
18/02/2020 - Interviews
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
Interview with 29-year-old German mountaineer Fabian Buhl who on 7 February flew off Cerro Torre in Patagonia with his paraglider.
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
13/02/2020 - Alpinism
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland
10/02/2020 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland
Buildering in Edinburgh: Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has climbed a perfect hand crack below a bridge in Edinburgh, Scotland.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker. Hinterberger reports.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.
Punta Patrì Sud, new ski descent by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey, Mike Arnold
Punta Patrì Sud, new ski descent by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey, Mike Arnold
A few days after the remarkable descent carried out by Paul Bonhomme, Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey and Mike Arnold have traced a new line down the south face of Punta Patrì in the Gran Paradiso massif. Capozzi reports.