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Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
03/08/2019 - Alpinism
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
French alpinists Antoine Bletton and Sébastien Moatti have established Armand Marley (350m, 6a+), a new rock climb up Gendarme du Cardinal in the Mont Blanc massif.
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
22/07/2019 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required...
Nina Caprez flys up Grand Capucin Voie Petit
20/07/2019 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez flys up Grand Capucin Voie Petit
swiss climber Nina Caprez has made a fast repeat of Voie Petit, up Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc. Established in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit, this 450m 8b multi-pitch was freed by Alexander Huber in 2005.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Cédric Lachat is Yeah Man, multi-pitch climb up Gastlosen in Switzerland
04/07/2019 - Alpinism
Cédric Lachat is Yeah Man, multi-pitch climb up Gastlosen in Switzerland
swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Yeah Man, a difficult multi-pitch route up Gran Pfad summit in the Gastlosen mountain range in Switzerland.
Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade
26/06/2019 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade
swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Sweet Neuf at Pierrot Beach in France, confirming the 9a+ grade suggested after the first ascent by Anak Verhoeven from Belgium.
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
Ecuadorian - swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
Plane lands below summit of Mont Blanc
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
Plane lands below summit of Mont Blanc
On Tuesday morning a plane containing two Swissmen landed circa 400 meters below the summit of Mont Blanc, before being intercepted by police.
Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin
02/06/2019 - Climbing
Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin
On Torre di Aimonin in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach has made the first ascent of 'Know your cat', a new trad variant to the rock climbs Know yourself and Cani & Gatti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
The best climber in the world: Marcel Rémy aged 96 attempts 6a multi-pitch
09/05/2019 - Alpinism
The best climber in the world: Marcel Rémy aged 96 attempts 6a multi-pitch
96-year-old swiss alpinist Marcel Rémy has attempted to climb a 6a multi-pitch rock climb. Is he perhaps the best climber in the world. Andreas Kubin reports.
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.
Giuliano Cameroni: one video, two 8C+ first ascents in Ticino, Switzerland
30/04/2019 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni: one video, two 8C+ first ascents in Ticino, Switzerland
The video of Giuliano Cameroni making the first ascents of two of the hardest boulder problems in Switzerland, Poison The Well at Brione and REM at Cresciano.
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Sébastien de Sainte Marie and Marco Cavalli have skied what is likely to the first descent of the North Face of Piz Dolf / Trinserhorn (3027m) in the swiss Alps. de Sainte Marie reports.

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