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Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
15/01/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
The video of American alpinist Colin Haley's 20/12/2009 solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia, via the Amy route. The film was made by Haley with a video camera mounted on his helmet.
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Dave MacLeod climbs two new routes at Glen Coe, Scotland
11/01/2010 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod climbs two new routes at Glen Coe, Scotland
Dave MacLeod is making the most of great British winter conditions by climbing two new routes at Glen Coe, Liquidation and Frozen Assets at Aonach Eagach.
Casal Pianos, new crack climbing area in Portugal
07/01/2010 - Climbing
Casal Pianos, new crack climbing area in Portugal
Climbing in Portugal has become more varied thanks to the recent discovery of the basalt sea cliff Casal Pianos. Located close to Lisbon, this crack trad cliff hosted an international meeting called "Pianos Rachados" in November.
Krakow Mountain Festival
04/01/2010 - Events
Krakow Mountain Festival
Dorota Dubicka takes a look at the event which took place in Poland at the strat of December and attracted over 5000 visitors.
New icefalls at Lys Balma, Gressoney
30/12/2009 - Alpinism
New icefalls at Lys Balma, Gressoney
Elio Bonfanti introduces three new icefalls at Lys Balma, Gressoney, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.
Santa Linya, Chris Sharma frees Neanderthal 9b
21/12/2009 - Climbing
Santa Linya, Chris Sharma frees Neanderthal 9b
On 18/12/2009 Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Neanderthal 9b at Santa Linya, Spain.
San Giorgio, climbing in the Marche, Italy
17/12/2009 - Climbing
San Giorgio, climbing in the Marche, Italy
Located close to picturesque Ascoli Piceno, with over 100 routes San Giorgio is a little rock climbing gem in central Italy.
Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
16/12/2009 - Climbing
Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
After 10 years of trying the Italian climber Sandro Neri has managed to repeat Emicrania 8b at Ceresera (Belluno).
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
15/12/2009 - Climbing
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
Dave Macleod analyses his ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. Climbed in July 2008, this terrifying route represented a new level of trad climbing for the 29 year old Scottish climber.
Ren Zhong Feng, first ascent in China
10/12/2009 - Alpinism
Ren Zhong Feng, first ascent in China
On 28/11/2009 the Danish climbers Kristoffer Szilas and Martin Ploug reached the summit of the hiterhto unclimbed Ren Zhong Feng (5800m) in the Sichuan range in China via their route Lost to Ice (TD: M4, WI4, 1300m). During that period four Hungarian climbers went missing on the same mountain.
Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
08/12/2009 - Alpinism
Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have carried out the first ascent Moonwalk WI6/M7, at 1000m the longest icefall in Austria.
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
04/12/2009 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the South Face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.

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