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New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
22/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
Between 2016 and 2017 a series of new rock climbs were first ascended on the Lofoten Islands, Norway, by the Spanish climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Pau Gómez, Jordi Esteve and Felix Queipo established up peaks Marklitinden, Storskiva, Merraflestinden and Moltbaertinden.
Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a
19/08/2017 - Climbing
Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a
The report by Pietro Radassao who at Frosolone (Molise, Central Italy) made the first ascent of 'Iron Moon', a sport climb for which the Italian climber suggests 8c+/9a.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo offer unparalleled rock climbing throughout the Dolomites. Planetmountain.com provides an overview with some of the routes that have become milestones in the history of mountaineering, such as Spigolo Giallo, Via Comici - Dimai, Via Cassin, Hasse Brandler, Spigolo degli...
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
17/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
Interview with Italian climber Federica Mingolla who teamed up with Nicolò Geremia to repeat Via della Cattedrale (8a+ max, 800m), the famous climb up Marmolada, Dolomites
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
The first episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
10/08/2017 - Climbing
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
America’s Sasha DiGiulian and Spain’s Edu Marin have made what is believed to be the second free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
09/08/2017 - Alpinism
Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
08/08/2017 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
The sport climbing Oscars return to Arco on Friday 25 August 2017 with the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends, celebrated during the 31st Rock Master. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Stefano Ghisolfi (Ita), Margo Hayes (USA) and Adam Ondra (Cze), while the La Sportiva Competition...
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
07/08/2017 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
The video of Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl who, 489 days after a serious injury, has managed to make the first free ascent of Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland. Graded 8c+, this route is one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
04/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
03/08/2017 - Events
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.
Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France
02/08/2017 - Climbing
Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France
Italian climber Laura Rogora has climbed the first 8c+ section of Biographie at Céüse in France. The extension, freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma, is considered a benchmark 9a+ and was attempted in June by America’s Margo Hayes.

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