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Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...
Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia
31/07/2020 - Climbing
Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia
Alexey Rubtsov reports about the huge bouldering potential at Djan Tugan in the Caucasus in Russia where he has established 30 boulder problems up to 8B+. The Russian bouldering champ has described the area as 'new world-class bouldering area’.
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few...
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa
10/07/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa
Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1990 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
03/07/2020 - Alpinism
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy
26/06/2020 - Alpinism
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy
Francesco Salvaterra introduces the rock climb Nido di rondine, a 'forgotten gem' on Scoglio di Boazzo in Val Daone established in 1985 by Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti and Ermanno Salvaterra.
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
24/06/2020 - Alpinism
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Cortina Mountain Guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.
Spitzkoppe, climbing Namibia's red granite inselberg
16/06/2020 - Alpinism
Spitzkoppe, climbing Namibia's red granite inselberg
The famous granite inselberg Spitzkoppe in Namibia seen through the eyes of Italian mountaineer and photographer Manrico Dell’Agnola.
Sardinia’s Monte Arista hosts new crack climb Black Lives Matter
09/06/2020 - Climbing
Sardinia’s Monte Arista hosts new crack climb Black Lives Matter
On Monte Arista in Sardinia, Italy, Simone Desogus and Maurizio Oviglia have made the first ascent of the crack climb Black Lives Matter.
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi.
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
28/04/2020 - Alpinism
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.

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