Home page Planetmountain.com
Smooth Criminal first ascended by Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer in Floitental, a small valley that branches off before the Zillertal close to Innsbruck in Austria.
Photo by Martin Sieberer archive
Belayed by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer frees pitch 3 of Smooth Criminal, Floitental, Austria
Photo by thebirdview
Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer making the first ascent of Smooth Criminal, Floitental, Austria
Photo by Martin Sieberer
Smooth Criminal, Floitental, Austria first ascended by Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer
Photo by Martin Sieberer archive

Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer

by

Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Smooth Criminal (M9/WI7-/150m), a testing mixed climb established in the Floitental in Austria.

Austrian alpinists Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have completed their long-tem mixed climbing project on a hitherto unclimbed wall high up in the Floitental, a small valley that branches off before the Zillertal close to Innsbruck in Austria.

Kehrer and Sieberer first ventured into the valley February 2018 and, using trad gear and very few bolts where the ice was too thin or the granite otherwise unprotectable, they established the first two pitches. Four years passed before the pair returned this January to establish the remaining two pitches, past thin ice and runout pro. Reaching the top proved a relief but they felt they needed to return to complete the works and on 28 February Sieberer managed to free all pitches on lead, running it out on the crux 3rd pitch past extremely delicate ice.

Sieberer explained "A daring swing into the void and cautious climbing forces me to make a decision: if need be, am I mentally strong enough to climb the next 25 meters in the steep ice without placing pegs or ice screws, or do I give up and fall 5 meters down onto the last bolt. I know from my last here that there is a crack halfway up that I can probably use as pro. I continue to climb cautiously without thinking, ignoring the strange, hollow bellows and after ten meters I place some gear in the rock. The ice quality improves, but the drip on the left is connected so poorly rock that it is unlikely to remain attached to the wall for much longer. The right drip sounds better, but I don't dare place an ice screw. I place another two nuts in the overhang (both left in-situ) and climb the entire drip fuelled by endorphins. Only when the angle eases off do I place an ice screw and let my joy take over."

Graded M9/WI7-/150m, Smooth Criminal is a physically but above all psychologically demanding outing and requires optimal conditions for a repeat.

SMOOTH CRIMINAL (M9/WI7-/150M)
P1: WI5+, 60m (1 peg)
P2: M9, 25m (7 bolts)
P3: M7/WI7-, 45m (3 bolts, 2 nuts)
P4: WI5+, 30m

Info: www.lensecapestories.at

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Goodbye Innsbrooklyn in Valsertal, Austria
06.04.2022
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Goodbye Innsbrooklyn in Valsertal, Austria
The report by Simon Messner who at the end of March with Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Goodbye Innsbrooklyn, a difficult mixed climb up the North Face of Schrammacher in the Valsertal, Austria.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy, watch Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer bike &climb three classics in Austria
30.03.2022
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy, watch Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer bike &climb three classics in Austria
The video of Hannes Hohenwarter and Martin Sieberer who over a period of three days in summer 2020 repeated three classic climbs in the Tyrol, Austria: Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser.
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
21.09.2021
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
Simon Messner reports about his August 2021 attempt with Martin Sieberer to climb Praqpa Ri (7.134m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
22.02.2021
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.


Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
19.12.2020
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30.09.2020
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
04.08.2020
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites
03.01.2020
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites
On 27/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Seitensprung, a new ice climb in Val Lietres - Langental, Dolomites.
Muztagh Tower Black Tooth, first ascent details by Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer
08.08.2019
Muztagh Tower Black Tooth, first ascent details by Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer
Details of the first ascent of Black Tooth, the 6718m mountain next to Muztagh Tower in the Karakorum, Pakistan, carried out by Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer on 26 July 2019.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer summit Black Tooth in Karakorum
04.08.2019
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer summit Black Tooth in Karakorum
Mountaineers Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Black Tooth, a 6718m mountain in the Karakorum range in Pakistan.
Wechnerwand North Face climbed by Philipp Brugger, Martin Sieberer
24.11.2018
Wechnerwand North Face climbed by Philipp Brugger, Martin Sieberer
At the start of November 2018 Philipp Brugger and Martin Sieberer climbed a new winter route up the North Face of Wechnerwand in the Stubai Alps in Austria.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer