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Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first ascent of the hitherto untouched Angavoa wall via the new...
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
22/09/2015 - Events
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
From 10 - 15 September 2015 the Highline Meeting Monte Piana took place close to Misurina in the Dolomites. More than 350 highliners from 20 countries participated in this non-competitive event, during which a new highline world record was set and a hammock rainbow was created to symbolise peace, to...
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
22/09/2015 - Climbing
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
This summer Luca Cornella Michel Ghezzi made the first ascent of La Guerriera, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Bassa d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
17/09/2015 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
This summer in Fischleintal, just a stone’s throw from the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the South Tyrolean alpinists Markus Tschurtschenthaler and Hannes Pfeifhofer, and Lisi Steurer from Austria’s East Tyrol made the first ascent of Weg der Neugier, a new 500m alpine sports climb up Einserkofel in the Italian...
Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl climb Die Unendliche Geschichte in Rätikon
16/09/2015 - Climbing
Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl climb Die Unendliche Geschichte in Rätikon
Both Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl have repeated Die Unendliche Geschichte, first climbed by Beat Kammerlander in 1990 in the Rätikon massif, Switzerland. 420m high and graded 8b+, this climb had previously only been repeated once, by Italy's Pietro dal Prà in 2005.
Dôme de Neige des Écrins, avalanche kills 7 alpinists in French Alps
16/09/2015 - Alpinism
Dôme de Neige des Écrins, avalanche kills 7 alpinists in French Alps
Seven alpinists were killed on Tuesday, 15 September 2015 when they were hit by an avalanche on Dôme de Neige, in France’s Ecrins massif.
Father's day
16/09/2015 - Alpinism
Father's day
Ivo Ferrari and the "responsibility" of being a father who guides his son up a rock climb.
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
15/09/2015 - Alpinism
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
Maurizio Oviglia and Recep Ince recommend some new trad climbs in Pınarbaşı Canyon (Ala Daglar, Turkey).
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
09/09/2015 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
On 26 August 2015 the Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer made a free solo climb of Mephisto, the route established in 1979 by Reinhard Schiestl and Luggi Rieser on Sass de Crusc in the Dolomites
Rally Terradets, September climbing marathon in Spain
08/09/2015 - Climbing
Rally Terradets, September climbing marathon in Spain
From 18 - 20 September 2015 the 6th Rally La Sportiva and 12th Climbing Terradets, the international rock climbing marathon at Terradets in Spain.
Roland Hemetzberger discovers his Delirium on Austria's Wilder Kaiser
01/09/2015 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger discovers his Delirium on Austria's Wilder Kaiser
German climber Roland Hemetzberger has made the first free ascent of his new 8c multi-pitch Delirium on the Fleischbank sector of the Wilder Kaiser.
Huge rockfall on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc
27/08/2015 - Alpinism
Huge rockfall on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc
Today, Thursday 27/08/2015, rockfall activity took place on the SE Face of Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc. The video and photos taken by Mountain Guide Gianluca Marra.
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
27/08/2015 - Alpinism
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
Over a ten-day period in July 2015 Silvan Schüpbach and Bernadette Zak attempted to make the first free ascent of the 1200m high Piteraq up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland. Except for a 3m pendulum on pitch 22, the swiss alpinists climbed everything free with difficulties up 7c, R, X.