Home page Planetmountain.com
Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk repeating Traumpfeiler, the famous multi-pitch sports climb at Cansla in the Dolomites.
Photo by Martin Dejori

Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk

di

Climbing video: Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk repeat Traumpfeiler, the famous multi-pitch sports climb at Cansla in the Dolomites.

Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams. The name couldn’t be more appropriate for this famous climb that, given its beauty, also lent its name to the magnificent limestone missile located beneath the Sella Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Bolted from above in 1984 by Gardena alpinists Stefan Stuflesser and Carlo Großrubatscher on Meisules dla Biesces, this outing is recognised as being one of the first multi-pitch sports climbs in the Dolomites.

"You have to bear in mind that, until 1983, bolts had practically never been used before in the modern sense," wrote local expert Manfred Stuffer back in 1989 "For mountaineering in Val Gardena - and not only in this valley - this new way of climbing routes represented a new vision for alpinism and a widening of horizons. Since then, bolts have always been the focus of debates and controversy in the Dolomites, even nowadays."

Over the years new multi-pitches were added alongside other single pitch climbs, giving rise to an entire "sector" referred to as Cansla, but Traumpfeiler remains one of crown jewels. In the meantime the route has been rebooted, and even today you can see signs of the past, such as some 8mm bolts Stuflesser drilled by hand. In this video he repeats his route together with Filip Schenk, the 16-year-old from Santa Cristina in Val Gardena who was crowned Youth Bouldering World Champion of his category in Arco last year.

Traumpfeiler
6a+, 6c+, 6b, 7a




TOPO: Cansla, Dolomites

Share


SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra