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Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
12/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
Updates directly from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. After having established a new big wall up Great Sail Peak (1,615m), the expedition has added a further two new routes to the Stewart...
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Himlung in Nepal, mountaineering off the beaten track
26/03/2016 - Alpinism
Himlung in Nepal, mountaineering off the beaten track
The report by Italian alpinist Riccardo Bergamini who on 23 October 2015 ascended Himlung 7126m, a remote mountain situated on the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Julien Herry reports about the first ski and snowboard descent of the Voie Originale down the South Face of Grande Rocheuse (4102m) in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out together with Davide Capozzi, Lambert Galli and Denis Trento.
Alpinism: new ice and mixed climbs at Nipissis in Quebec
16/03/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new ice and mixed climbs at Nipissis in Quebec
In February 2016 Jean-Philippe Belanger, Jas Fauteux, Maarten van Haeren, Charles Roberge and Pete Takeda established six new ice climbs at the Le mur de 51 wall in the remote Nipissis area in Quebec, Canada.
Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion
09/12/2015 - Alpinism
Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion
On the climb Antonello Cardinale up Monte Disgrazia together with Ivo Ferrari: alpinism carefully balanced between reason and passion.
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
24/11/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
In October 2015 alpinists Hayden Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), as well as climbing a new route up the South Ridge of Chomochior (6278m) in Indian Kashmir Himalayas.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
22/09/2015 - Events
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
From 10 - 15 September 2015 the Highline Meeting Monte Piana took place close to Misurina in the Dolomites. More than 350 highliners from 20 countries participated in this non-competitive event, during which a new highline world record was set and a hammock rainbow was created to symbolise peace, to...
Tor des Géants cancelled
18/09/2015 - Competitions
Tor des Géants cancelled
A difficult decision was taken yesterday at the Tor des Géants: at 8.30 am the grueling mountain running competition was cancelled due to prohibitive weather conditions.
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
Monte Bianco di Presanella and the new rock climb Il Male di Vivere
16/06/2015 - Alpinism
Monte Bianco di Presanella and the new rock climb Il Male di Vivere
From 2 to 3 June 2015 Paolo Baroldi, Francesco Salvaterra and Alessio Tait made the first ascent of a new rock climb up the East Face of Monte Bianco di Presanella. The new route is called Il Male di Vivere (300m , 45° M 7a+ (VIII+) R3), has been described...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb NE Ridge of Devil's Paw North Tower in Alaska
10/06/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb NE Ridge of Devil's Paw North Tower in Alaska
In mid-April 2015 Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl made an alpine style first ascent of the NE ridge of the North tower of Devils Paw, Alaska via their new route Black Roses.
Heart and muscles: Mont Blanc on foot and by bike
15/04/2015 - Alpinism
Heart and muscles: Mont Blanc on foot and by bike
From Padua, close to Venice, all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc: a bicycle ride that culminated on the summit of the symbol of mountaineering. A great adventure experienced at just the right speed which, three summers down the line, still lives on in the memories of the...

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