Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion

On the climb Antonello Cardinale up Monte Disgrazia together with Ivo Ferrari: alpinism carefully balanced between reason and passion.
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Ivo Ferrari climbing the route Antonello Cardinale, Monte Disgrazia
Ivo Ferrari
As I illuminate my steps through this cold night I cannot help but wonder about why I'm here! Nights are made for dreaming, for sleeping, for resting. Nights are all about warmth… and I’m up here, have chosen to climb alone, am on my own for the love of it! Today I’m after some snow, ice, silence and solitude. I want to look around, imagine and imagine being...

I’ve chosen a rarely repeated route, almost unknown even, a line dedicated to a young climber from Lecco, a gifted alpinist, a promise, whisked away by fate far too soon. The route is called Antonello Cardinale and was first climbed by Benigno "Ben" Balatti, G. Rampone and R. Riva back in increasingly distant 1985. I observed the route while repeating Corvi, another of Ben’s outings nearby, together with Dario at the start of the year. It’s an inviting ramp line, a logical and natural climb.

This autumn is strange, no snow at all, it’s both hot and cold at the same time and all this motivated me to climb up at altitude, hence the legs doing the work! I walk quickly, haste prevents my thoughts from wandering, hinders thoughts from thinking and I take this opportunity to "quickly" reach the base of the route. Eyes look upwards and observe the route, my hands are snuggled warm in their gloves. Yes, how I enjoy these things, these quick escapes upwards.

Sometimes, when reason prevails, I manage to share theses climbs, but only with friends, real ones, a rare commodity. Other times, when reason takes a backseat, when "there’s absolutely no holding back", when along the road of normality I realise, feel, that I’m speeding too fast, then I slow down and move into the less popular lane. That lane where you no longer need to look around, it’s a lane of little interest to most, but it’s safer as there you’re traveling on your own, in your own personal direction.

I love being alone, I love feeling afraid, I love the evening preparations for tomorrow and living today in uncertainty. I’d love to climb an endless slope and never reach the top, without feeling (because I, too, feel it) the "modern" need of having to share what I’ve just done…

Like a "madman" I plant and remove my ice axes from the snow. I progress safely, accompanied by the "noise" of my body... Yes, how I enjoy these things. The top is a beautiful summit, slap bang in in the middle of a fantastic crest, framed by cornices and snowy daggers. The summit is the end of something... the summit is always the highest point!

I return to valley without further ado. What should I do now? Tell someone, send photos, what now? In all these years of sharing my "short stories" I’ve received both compliments and criticism. During these years I’ve got to know friends and those who are not ... what should I do? Why tell this story? Perhaps it serves as a reminder that certain routes deserve more, certain "tributes" should be remembered more often. Perhaps to see my name in print, perhaps for the love of it... a love that always makes me utter "how I enjoy these things." I recommend this route…

Ivo Ferrari

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